Alpha's DD Project Log UPDATE: Suspension review + mini-shoot! p.7 - Page 3 - Team Integra Forums

TheAlpha · 01-24-2012, 07:57 PM

Just revised my drawing, (Above...post #23) I made quite a few changes, I did away with the transistors is favor of N and P type MOSFETs. I found out the brake switch input for the ECU at D2 is actually looking for battery voltage while the brake isn't depressed. So I am using the a P-Type MOSFET for the brake (Like a normaly closed switch). While the TPS side uses a N-Type MOSFET (Like a normally open (NO) switch) along with a resistor to fake a full throttle "pump".

Overall the diagram is much simpler than before, which is ALWAYS a good thing. :-)

TheAlpha · 02-05-2012, 12:12 PM

Just updated the thread description...(Type R swap or GSR-Turbo???) I am still on the edge on deciding what road to take, so please push me in either direction please!

There should be a LARGE update soon, the interior is out of the car and I am deep into applying dynamat. Audio system will be installed soon as well and I'll have a whole host of pics to post up.

Edit: Btw, running new speaker wire to the doors was a PAIN! Not that I didn't know what I was getting into, just glad its DONE.

stealthpenguin · 02-05-2012, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheAlpha

Just updated the thread description...(Type R swap or GSR-Turbo???) I am still on the edge on deciding what road to take, so please push me in either direction please!

There should be a LARGE update soon, the interior is out of the car and I am deep into applying dynamat. Audio system will be installed soon as well and I'll have a whole host of pics to post up.

Edit: Btw, running new speaker wire to the doors was a PAIN! Not that I didn't know what I was getting into, just glad its DONE.

Did you use the drill method to run the speaker wires?

TheAlpha · 02-05-2012, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stealthpenguin

Did you use the drill method to run the speaker wires?

Sure did, I considered running the wire through the harness connector but I couldn't peel back the the boot on the car side enough to clearly see the other side. I didn't want to risk severely damaging the boot or wiring so I decided to drill a hole instead.

LightningTeg · 02-05-2012, 03:56 PM

Go for the R brake mod I did a write up on!

TheAlpha · 02-05-2012, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LightningTeg

Go for the R brake mod I did a write up on!

Nice, not sure if they'll fit in my LS webs though, what is the min diameter I need for this setup? $145 for a big brake upgrade is a steal!

LightningTeg · 02-05-2012, 07:33 PM

Probably not Webs, but every OEM 15" wheel I have seen fits. Its time to upgrade lol. I couldnt stand those things.

TheAlpha · 02-06-2012, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LightningTeg

Probably not Webs, but every OEM 15" wheel I have seen fits. Its time to upgrade lol. I couldnt stand those things.

Yea, this just might push me enough to upgrade. I'm torn between aftermarket or LS webs. Aftermarket may make the car more of a target to thieves and cops, so that is why I'm hesitating, it really is quite sad.

TheAlpha · 02-19-2012, 04:35 PM

Several weeks ago I purchased my new audio setup:

JVC single din Head Unit with 5.4" touch screen
Small JL Audio sub (I'd like to keep a fair amount of trunk space)
4x Sound Ordinance 6.5" component speakers w/ tweeters and filters (2 missing from pic)
300W Alpine Amp CH1+2 -> Front Speakers + Tweeters CH3+4 Bridged -> Sub
24sqft Dynamat Lite
Monster speaker wire to replace ALL stock speaker wiring
Component speaker wiring from head unit to amp

First step of course is to remove necessary interior paneling, thankfully since i've done this before, it took no time at all.

Next was something I have been dreading for a long time, but knew I'd need to do it one day, that is, run new speaker wire to the doors. I opt'd to dry a variant of Z's alternate method drilling a hole in the side of the doors.

My weapon was a 1/2" drill bit, not exactly the best tool for the job, but I figured if I go slowly I should be fine:

After a few minutes of drilling I had a nice hole in the door:

I ran two speaker wires through a 1/2" tube and into the harness, then used rubber Loctite sealing wrap to seal it all up. Working in such a tight space was a pain, and my right hand hates me by this point.

After two full days working on these %$@# door wires I was READY to begin throwing on some Dynamat:

I wanted to use the stock tweeter locations in the doors for my new tweeters, so I removed the stock tweeter and found some tubed sealant (I'd tell you what it is, but was apparently thrown out soon after, it was for bathroom sealant) and glued the tweeters to the stock bracket. It actually bonded both metals extremely well, but just for good measure I threw some Loctite wrap around it. Fits in the stock location for that perfect OEM look.

With the rear speakers mounted I found an great place to mount the filter, drilled two holes in the bracket and BAM, done. For the right side I had to modify the ABS module bracket to make room for the filter, but thankfully this wasn't an issue and took no more than a few minutes.

So far all the wiring is in place and I ran a full test of the system and I'm extremely pleased with the sound quality!!

Everything powered up and worked on first power up too.

So far I have approx 40hrs invested in the project and after hearing it, was 100% worth the time and money. Finishing pictures to come!

Also, I've decided to use mini relays in my anti-theft circuit:

I also found a nice stainless steal illuminated pushbutton which will be used to punch in the short ECU code before starting the car. I decided it should be illuminated so I don't have to hunt for them in the dark...or im just prepairing for the future.

:

My new (final??) electrical diagram:

elninolindo22 · 02-19-2012, 10:45 PM

nice teg...love the process and the fact that your car is silver lol...but upon you hunting for the great light output i figured i'd tell you to consider going this route:

Suggestion if you want 98 fogs...

TheAlpha · 02-21-2012, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elninolindo22

nice teg...love the process and the fact that your car is silver lol...but upon you hunting for the great light output i figured i'd tell you to consider going this route:

Suggestion if you want 98 fogs...

I saw your thread, I already have a set of OEM fogs sitting of the shelf, but im interested to see how those work out.

TheAlpha · 02-22-2012, 08:41 PM

I received my JDM ITR exhaust today, only to find the tip BADLY damaged. The muffler was wrapped in plastic and the tip had a layer of bubble wrap around it, but nothing was really protecting the edge from damage. Contacting the seller....this has killed my mood today

TheAlpha · 02-25-2012, 02:49 PM

New goodies in the mail!

Legit Honda OEM Fogs:

Anzo corners (Current ebay pair going down hill, lasted 5 years though):

Centerforce dual friction clutch, I've read really good things about this clutch, should provide SMOOTH driveability with enhanced torque capacity. In the pic you can also see how the pressure plate uses bearings at the pivot point for smoother feeling pedal action.

Weapon R intake, an intake is an intake, this one is a bit of an experiment...so we shall see.

Optima Yellow Top:

PLX DM-6 Wideband + Glowshift Tach:

Also, Neptune Anti-theft circuit prototype complete and working

Just in case some didn't see the earlier post this system I'm building is to take advantage of Neptune's advanced anti-theft feature. A feature which requires you to input X number of consecutive brake and throttle pumps before starting the car. However instead of using the brake and throttle, I want to use two buttons, one for brake and one for throttle. In order to do this I must simulate a throttle and brake pump with each button press. Once the car starts the circuit is disabled, to prevent anyone from sending a false TPS signals to the ECU while the engine is running.

My prototype which, yes, worked the first time I gave it power.

The actual board will arrive in a week or so and the final board will be assembled. Pics:

So perdy

LightningTeg · 02-25-2012, 05:45 PM

Thats really cool man. You should make some boards and sell them.

01-24-2012, 07:57 PM	#29 (permalink)
TheAlpha Senior Member Real Name: Matt Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: That place in VA Model: JDM ITR swapped LS Year: 98 Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Just revised my drawing, (Above...post #23) I made quite a few changes, I did away with the transistors is favor of N and P type MOSFETs. I found out the brake switch input for the ECU at D2 is actually looking for battery voltage while the brake isn't depressed. So I am using the a P-Type MOSFET for the brake (Like a normaly closed switch). While the TPS side uses a N-Type MOSFET (Like a normally open (NO) switch) along with a resistor to fake a full throttle "pump". Overall the diagram is much simpler than before, which is ALWAYS a good thing. :-) __________________ Current Setup: 98' Spec JDM Type-R swapped LS Former Setup: 250hp/250tq LS-T My Build Thread

02-05-2012, 12:12 PM	#30 (permalink)
TheAlpha Senior Member Real Name: Matt Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: That place in VA Model: JDM ITR swapped LS Year: 98 Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Just updated the thread description...(Type R swap or GSR-Turbo???) I am still on the edge on deciding what road to take, so please push me in either direction please! There should be a LARGE update soon, the interior is out of the car and I am deep into applying dynamat. Audio system will be installed soon as well and I'll have a whole host of pics to post up. Edit: Btw, running new speaker wire to the doors was a PAIN! Not that I didn't know what I was getting into, just glad its DONE. Last edited by TheAlpha; 02-05-2012 at 12:15 PM.

02-05-2012, 03:56 PM	#33 (permalink)
LightningTeg Super Moderator Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Indianapolis, IN Feedback Score: 24 reviews	Go for the R brake mod I did a write up on! __________________ 97' Civic EX LS swapped DD 98' Integra LS Previously 283whp/300ft-lbs; Now 602whp/453ft-lbs, Non-Vtec E85. PB 12.7 @ 128mph "His Noodly Appendage hath blessed the B-Series"

02-25-2012, 02:49 PM	#41 (permalink)
TheAlpha Senior Member Real Name: Matt Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: That place in VA Model: JDM ITR swapped LS Year: 98 Feedback Score: 4 reviews	New goodies in the mail! Legit Honda OEM Fogs: Anzo corners (Current ebay pair going down hill, lasted 5 years though): Centerforce dual friction clutch, I've read really good things about this clutch, should provide SMOOTH driveability with enhanced torque capacity. In the pic you can also see how the pressure plate uses bearings at the pivot point for smoother feeling pedal action. Weapon R intake, an intake is an intake, this one is a bit of an experiment...so we shall see. Optima Yellow Top: PLX DM-6 Wideband + Glowshift Tach: Also, Neptune Anti-theft circuit prototype complete and working Just in case some didn't see the earlier post this system I'm building is to take advantage of Neptune's advanced anti-theft feature. A feature which requires you to input X number of consecutive brake and throttle pumps before starting the car. However instead of using the brake and throttle, I want to use two buttons, one for brake and one for throttle. In order to do this I must simulate a throttle and brake pump with each button press. Once the car starts the circuit is disabled, to prevent anyone from sending a false TPS signals to the ECU while the engine is running. My prototype which, yes, worked the first time I gave it power. The actual board will arrive in a week or so and the final board will be assembled. Pics: So perdy Last edited by TheAlpha; 02-25-2012 at 04:26 PM.

02-05-2012, 07:33 PM	#35 (permalink)
LightningTeg Super Moderator Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Indianapolis, IN Feedback Score: 24 reviews	Probably not Webs, but every OEM 15" wheel I have seen fits. Its time to upgrade lol. I couldnt stand those things.

02-19-2012, 04:35 PM	#37 (permalink)
TheAlpha Senior Member Real Name: Matt Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: That place in VA Model: JDM ITR swapped LS Year: 98 Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Several weeks ago I purchased my new audio setup: JVC single din Head Unit with 5.4" touch screen Small JL Audio sub (I'd like to keep a fair amount of trunk space) 4x Sound Ordinance 6.5" component speakers w/ tweeters and filters (2 missing from pic) 300W Alpine Amp CH1+2 -> Front Speakers + Tweeters CH3+4 Bridged -> Sub 24sqft Dynamat Lite Monster speaker wire to replace ALL stock speaker wiring Component speaker wiring from head unit to amp First step of course is to remove necessary interior paneling, thankfully since i've done this before, it took no time at all. Next was something I have been dreading for a long time, but knew I'd need to do it one day, that is, run new speaker wire to the doors. I opt'd to dry a variant of Z's alternate method drilling a hole in the side of the doors. My weapon was a 1/2" drill bit, not exactly the best tool for the job, but I figured if I go slowly I should be fine: After a few minutes of drilling I had a nice hole in the door: I ran two speaker wires through a 1/2" tube and into the harness, then used rubber Loctite sealing wrap to seal it all up. Working in such a tight space was a pain, and my right hand hates me by this point. After two full days working on these %$@# door wires I was READY to begin throwing on some Dynamat: I wanted to use the stock tweeter locations in the doors for my new tweeters, so I removed the stock tweeter and found some tubed sealant (I'd tell you what it is, but was apparently thrown out soon after, it was for bathroom sealant) and glued the tweeters to the stock bracket. It actually bonded both metals extremely well, but just for good measure I threw some Loctite wrap around it. Fits in the stock location for that perfect OEM look. With the rear speakers mounted I found an great place to mount the filter, drilled two holes in the bracket and BAM, done. For the right side I had to modify the ABS module bracket to make room for the filter, but thankfully this wasn't an issue and took no more than a few minutes. So far all the wiring is in place and I ran a full test of the system and I'm extremely pleased with the sound quality!! Everything powered up and worked on first power up too. So far I have approx 40hrs invested in the project and after hearing it, was 100% worth the time and money. Finishing pictures to come! Also, I've decided to use mini relays in my anti-theft circuit: I also found a nice stainless steal illuminated pushbutton which will be used to punch in the short ECU code before starting the car. I decided it should be illuminated so I don't have to hunt for them in the dark...or im just prepairing for the future. : My new (final??) electrical diagram:

02-19-2012, 10:45 PM	#38 (permalink)
elninolindo22 Senior Member Real Name: Roland Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: here in, NJ Feedback Score: 24 reviews	nice teg...love the process and the fact that your car is silver lol...but upon you hunting for the great light output i figured i'd tell you to consider going this route: Suggestion if you want 98 fogs...

02-22-2012, 08:41 PM	#40 (permalink)
TheAlpha Senior Member Real Name: Matt Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: That place in VA Model: JDM ITR swapped LS Year: 98 Feedback Score: 4 reviews	I received my JDM ITR exhaust today, only to find the tip BADLY damaged. The muffler was wrapped in plastic and the tip had a layer of bubble wrap around it, but nothing was really protecting the edge from damage. Contacting the seller....this has killed my mood today

02-25-2012, 05:45 PM	#42 (permalink)
LightningTeg Super Moderator Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Indianapolis, IN Feedback Score: 24 reviews	Thats really cool man. You should make some boards and sell them.

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