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wU-chronicles turbo log: revival is coming of this thread

155K views 876 replies 67 participants last post by  MorningZ 
#1 · (Edited)
ignition setup page 59
intake pipe for the turbo page 58
finally! page 58
engine is in page 57
its time for a belt whooping! page 56
Skunk2 LMA installed page 55
turbo mock up on the motor page 54
turbo is here page 54
blueprints page 53
turbo needs some work page 51
the tear down page 51
new head page 50
new block (ERL) page 49
is it my clutch? page 44
retuned for moar powa! page 42
slicks and oil catch can page 41
cornfused and transmission is in page 40
transmission toys page 38
oil leak, but no big problem page 37
lower ball joint discussion and completed page 35
sneak peek video page 34
need some wheels and tires page 32
wanting to resleeve page 30
New wastegate page 29
track time page 29
wastegate stuff page 28
update on 14in fan and things i will most likely be doing page 27
mom inspired shift boot page 27
zirgo 14in fan installed! page 26
the first week page 25
dyno graph page 24
omg $$ page 23
to much heat page 23
replacing fan.... page 22
exhaust done, feed line leak on turbo side page 21
the latest and greatest! page 20
car starts up! page 20
almost there page 19
ol return drama page 18
turbo kit is on...mostly page 17
suspension parts page 17
sorry for the wait page 16
exhaust leak fixed! page 16
NA dyno tune before turbo page 15
it never ends!!! page 15
s300 installed page 15
cake pan fan shroud..thanks melt man! page 14
side project page 14
fixed! page 14
replaced starter...still nothing page 14
cap and rotor failure but why page 13
comparing to different turbos with the neighbor page 13
the kit has come! page 12
310+ miles on 1 tank page 11
500 mile oil change page 11
pics and a throw back page 11
success!!! page 10
heartaches page 10
"the oil leak!" page 10
issue found... page 10
back to work page 10
taking a break page 9
engine starts!! forgot to plug in the ecu lol page 9
no engine start up =( page 8
going to start up the engine page 8
engine is installed!!! page 8
rack and pinon mod (thanks meltman!) page 8
engine bay painted page 8
before paint and major update kind of page 7
major update page 7
pistons out! page 6
the tear down page 5
pulling the engine out page 5
turbo setup page 3
pistons and rods arrive page 2



ive finally started to begin my turbo build on my 95 gsr. im going to do a rebuild on the block but keeping the stock sleeves. this will be a pic and video log (to keep it interesting). ill be posting pictures starting tomorrow on the items i have as of right now.

current my car sits:
i/h/e
s100
ctr cams
165 whp, pulls really nice

wu-chronicle turbo build list:

HAVE:
T3 garret turbo
treadstone exhaust manifold
boost gauge
walbro fuel pump
mistumoto intercooler
tial 38mm wastegate
ACL bearings
golden eagle intake manifold gasket
intercooler pipping
oil pressure gauge
moroso oil pan
Blox 70mm throttle body
cp pistons and eagle rods

NEED:
s300
injectors

down pipe

oil sandwich
oil lines
map sensor
blox air manifold
BOV
Blox/skunk2 Intake manifold

my goals are 300+ hp for starters with this setup. on a later date i may upgrade turbo and of course produce more power. but this car is daily driven along with my second car, i switch back and forth driving them to work. ive done a lot of reading and ive following other build logs that are on this site to get an idea of what to do and not to do. basically ive learned a lot.

if there is anything missing that i missed please feel free to let me know. i do hope i get some followers and make the turbo junkies proud! thanks.
 
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#799 ·
Mine is against the firewall in the general location of where my battery use to be, just like yours. I never thought about making a lead from it like you have mentioned, sounds like it should work. Until I make a lead I'm going to use my other cars' battery for power.

Why is it a two person job?
 
#800 ·
Just because the lead is temporary and I just set it in the open port on the distribution block and with the weight of the clamp and cable it would fall out. So I just have my girlfriend hold the cable in the port while I do the timing. I could install a lead but I dont think I would like having an open connection there for how rare I would actually use it. Been thinking about cutting the power wire for my timing light and using some sort of connector (like below) to allow me to stick the timing light in the DB without the need for the extra piece of cable then if I want to add the clamp for using it on another car I can just connect it back.
 
#801 ·
I see
I was thinking of putting a piece of board underneath the cable. Therefore it won't be in contact with metal. My starter should be at the store in the next thirty minutes.
 
#802 ·
Well all my fuses under the hood, the box ones, all smell burnt. They look fine but I'm confused as to what is going on with the car not starting and me having the spark flash from trying to tap off the starter for power for my timing gun.
 
#803 · (Edited)
as it stands right now i have determined the issue im having is a bad coil. i believe it went out when i had all the sparks flying around from trying to get power off my starter, bad idea. i had the coil tested and it wasnt getting any readings off the primary. i went to napa site, since they sale OE supplier parts, and they have the replacement im looking for. the problem is they close to early for me to get to them. my mother is on vacation (she works at a school) and i have an assignment for her tomorrow. get this part
NAPA AUTO PARTS
and ill give you the money. she is the only one that can do this because my dad works out of town, my brother well...its not going to happen and im at work. i figure if i shot her the link and she can show the guy the imagine on the screen i should be ok. i guess i see tomorrow how things turn out.
 
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#804 ·
#806 ·
The napa part is Delphi which is a oe supplier for many manufacturers. I know one the reps at the Toyota plant I work at. Either way my machine of a car has another delay. I guess Ill tackle my ignition setup or at least stage it. You know I'm not going to run a totally stock ignition, right?
 
#807 ·
today i bought a test light to check on my dizzy to see if its getting power and from the it was getting power. after removing the dizzy and new coil i noticed there was oil inside of the dizzy itself, no good. i think the inner seal just gave out and not to mention (i dont have a pic of this) the rotor side of the dizzy that mates with the head has a crack near the o-ring. in other words, it was going to fail some time in the near future. my brother has a jdm b16 in which i borrowed his dizzy to see if itll start up my car. sure enough, his dizzy started my car without fail! i have it on film, i was recording with my go pro because i really dont like the other camera i was using. i was able to set the timing by having it around the center mark on the crank pulley, i let the car idle at 2k for 15-20min using this



hey man laugh all you want, but it worked! need i remind you im doing this all by myself. i dont have a woman and all my neighbors are females, which isnt a problem but im just saying a mans got to do want a mans got to do. i drove my car around my neighborhood to make sure everything was checking out ok and felt right. it built boost easily, i went to 1-3 lbs, and drove it like a teg would...rough! i pulled the plugs to inspect them and they looked good. i took the radiator cap to look at the fluid and some little brown items where floating around, i know what your thinking but i think itll be ok. ive seen this before on my last motor but later after flushing the motor because i was going though t-stats, radiators and fans i didnt see it anymore. iirc my sleeves did have a little bit of oil on them so they wouldnt rust so it may be from that. plus the motor oil im using is red, amsoil break in oil. ill keep eye on everything to make sure its not leaking. tomorrow im going to make an intake pipe for my turbo in which ill showcase here for anyone interested. here is a small clip i did earlier of the motor idling. i have an exhaust leak due to my downpipe having a 4 bolt flange tact welded on there. its going to get fixed before the tune.

 
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#808 ·
also what can i put here to cover this pipe besides a plug? the cover that was on it broke off while fooling with my wire harness. i dont know the name of the black box but its behind the intake manifold on a stock gsr well at least the 94-95. while the engine is running its sucking up air and can effect the idle as well. any suggestions?

 
#809 ·
today i went and made a intake for my turbo because having the filter on the actual turbo isnt the best thing to do. according to my turbo engineer having a pipe coming off the turbo and retrieving cooler air will create the wheel to spin a little faster. to me it makes since, just think about it for min. why do factor turbo cars have intake pipes coming off the turbo compressor housing? i went a head a 90 degree coupler and a 180 degree intake, both items where purchased at Intercooler Pipe Fabrication - Silicone Intake Systems Auto Parts .











since i had the bumper off i went ahead and wet sand and buffed my headlights. gawd damn those things were horrible!



before



after



i drove my car around the block and when i came home i notice im leaking at the top radiator hose going to the block. i figured this was going to happen when i removed it the first time. its no big deal because i have plenty of hose left for me to cut off the old piece and use what is already there. i still need to source out a dizzy, preferable oem obd1. ls or gsr it doesnt matter.
 
#811 ·
I don't drive the car in the rain and I have a splash shield.
 
#812 ·
It is beneficial to move the filter away from the turbo mostly because of heat. I've heard of some people gaining 5-10whp by moving their filter to the fenderwell. However, in your case, it will probably be a wash or you might even lose a little power. You would have to consider the loss coefficient from the sharp 90 degree and then the loss coefficient of the 180 degree. Probably doesn't amount to much either way but something to think about regardless. Personally I would do what you did since heat is a big problem with turbos.
 
#816 · (Edited)
i dont think bends matters when it comes to air, air is air. also remember guys i can remove my turn signal to get direct air to the filter
 
#818 ·
you know how many bends i have for my intercooler pipping? quite a bit
 
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#822 ·
Though the link is interesting dialogue on theory of fluid dynamics which I do not claim to be an expert of.... I have never heard of anyone having this compressor surge issue he described that was related to turbo inlet piping size or shape. Sounds like his whole problem was being over analyzed. He likely had an issue with his BOV. I had the same issue with my knock off greddy BOV I used to have. Swapped the BOV and the problem was solved.
 
#825 ·
yeah to do all that will eat up some time on the dyno lol. i would have to take off my bumper, wait for it to cool down because itll be hella hot. is it worth it to see, maybe but not at this time. time is money.

i havent said when im getting this tuned, ill be able to work that out this week as to when.
 
#826 ·
been busy...sort of lately. been doing all my wiring for my ignition setup im running this time around. im running a summit ignition box with a icm bypass, in other words my dizzy is just a shell turning the cam. yep, the coil and icm are no longer in my dizzy. i have the summit box and the Send it Racing icm bypass under the passenger seat. the coil is sitting behind the abs motor due to lack of space in the engine bay. this coming saturday ill be having my down pipe rework and my car should hitting the dyno soon after.









 
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#828 ·
lol
nah i need it because i have an external coil going to it, its in the first and second picture near the abs motor. all though the honda ignition can yield over 500whp but it starts to show its weakness near 450+. my spark plug gap was set at .018 which is damn near touching the electrode. you wouldnt need anything like this for your current hp goal.
 
#829 · (Edited)
(sorry no photos today, i didnt take any)

today i rented a trailer from uhaul and transported my vehicle to my tuners shop. the trip up to the shop was fine maybe because my dad truck is a Tundra, in which i was using to tower my vehicle. my car will be there for a little before he will begin tuning it. he needs to rework my downpipe and he told me he'll tune it to 10lbs. reason being is because i want to be there for the "real" tune. one problem my tuner and i are going to face is scheduling. my work schedule is conflicting with his. i cant take a day off from work because i have a guy out already for vacation and my tuner is going to an event this friday for a week. i would hate to ask him to tune my vehicle this coming saturday knowing that he was out of town prior to that but if he doesnt do it then, then ill have to wait a little longer. OR i can pick my car up with a 10lbs tune and come back for the full thing when our schedule allows it. the second option seems better because ill have my car back sooner and his shop will have one less vehicle in it. i just have to make sure im not paying for the tune again since i pulled it out but it was his idea anyways. sorry if this post seems sloppy but i had a long morning/afternoon and spent a lot of money getting my car to the shop. the things we do for our vehicles...
 
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