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Old 12-08-2004, 07:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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should i replace the motor, or should i just get all new rods and bearings and replace them if i replace the rods could i get itr rods and pistons or b16 rods and pistons and put them in, im kinda new at this so can someone please help me out
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Old 12-08-2004, 07:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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what kind of engine do you have?
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Old 12-08-2004, 07:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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His profile says a 92 GS, so im pretty sure its safe to say he has a b18a
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Old 12-08-2004, 07:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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tear your motor done and see if it can be bored/honed, if it can, rebuild it, if it cant replace it.
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Old 12-08-2004, 10:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sneeedle on Dec/08/04
tear your motor done and see if it can be bored/honed, if it can, rebuild it, if it cant replace it.
Wow, it sounds soooo simple! J/K


Tyler are you 100% sure you hear a rod knocking?
If so you can replace the Bearings without taking out the engine, but is is a MAJOR project. If you go to www.helminc.com you can order the shop manual. DO NOT try to replace bearings without it! if it your main bearings, you'll have to pull the crank out, and that means pulling the motor out as well.

This is an overview of what you'll need to do. The reason I am telling you is to SUPPLEMENT the information in the HELMS, since the preferred method is to pull the engine first. you still need the Helms, the HAYNES book is not an option (piece of crap)

The tools you need at a MINIMUM are:
Torque wrench,
18inch breakerbar, extension, and wratchet
A GOOD set of metric 6 point and 12 point sockets (sears sells them in sets)
Plastigauge -green couple of packs
wd-40, two BIG cans.
good jack and jackstands. preferably four, or a lift.
Assembley lube with MOLY in it

Parts-
-Bearings (of course) as required. they cost a bit, and a FULL set of rod bearings (8 halves) main bearings (10 halves) and thrust bearings (2) will run around $200 bucks
-Oil pick-up gasket (#8 in the picture)
-Possibly a new oilpan gasket if your old one is damaged

Steps

-use the seafoam article and clean out your top end

- read this article
Engine bearing color codes

-then next thing you'll want to do is get is up on a lift or jacks.

-afterwards let your engine cool completely.

-Read Surferx's article on adjusting valve lash and do it. this will also familarize you with how to manually turn your engine. when you are done, make sure the spark plugs are out.
Adjust your valve lash




-Turn it so #1 and 4 are TDC, #2 and 3 will be BDC

-Drain the oil





-take off the oilpan, oil pickup, oil windage tray.

-take off the bearing caps for #2 and #3 rods, note the orientation and DoNT MIX THEM UP!!!

-clean them off, use a piece of plastigage and tighten them back on to the specs listed in the HELMS (see now you have to buy it!)

-take the caps off, and check the waxy strip. if your clearances meet specs (again refer to the helms) you may not need to replace the bearings.

-oil the caps up, tighten back up caps.

-rotate crank manually until #1 & 4 are BDC.

-Repeat the process to check the rod bearing clearances on # 1 & 4.

now if your bearings are scored, scratched, burned etc etc etc, you will need to replace them, but it may be a wasted effort if your crank journals are damaged.

If the bearings look okay but the clearances are out of tolerance the trick to doing it is as follows (you may want to double-check the plastigage process before spending $$$)

-Turn crank so all pistons are mid-stroke. take off the caps of any pair that need to be replaced (1&4 or 2&3) but not the opposite pair.

-cover the threads on the rod bolts with some rubber hose. this will protect the crank journals.

-CAREFULLY rotate the crank so the journal swings down to BDC out of the rod. continue around to midstroke on the opposite side. this should give you the most space to work with.

-Remove the upper bearing half, check for damage. clean rod surface and insert new bearing half. spray bearing face with WD-40 (prelube)

-CAREFULLY rotate crank back around. have a buddy turn the crank while you make sure the journal tucks into the rod. WATCH YOUR FINGERS!!!!

-clean rod bearing cap and insert bottom bearing half.

-Plastigauge check the new bearings (plastigauge, put on, tighten, take off, check) if clearances are good you are set.

-clean off waxy strip, re-lube with assembly lube and put on. torque to specs in HELMS.

-Repeat for other set of rods.

At this point you may want to Check the Main bearings. The Helms lists how to do it with the engine in, and I wont even ATTEMPT to describe it. Do it, and hopefully the clearances are good. if they arent, you'll need to pull the motor to change them.

When you are finished:
-Replace the windage tray, torque to specs.

-scrape off any oil pickup gasket residue, replace gasket (#8), install pickup, torque to specs.



-Reinstall oilpan, torque to specs following the tightening sequence in the HELMS. if you don't your oilpan might leak profusely. not good.

-fill with oil

-pray to the diety of your choosing that you didn't forget anything, have leftover parts, or left a tool in the motor.

-Start is up and let it warm up (NO REVVING!!!) for the amount of time listed in the HELMS.

-Take it out and drive it gently for a few miles, change your oil.

You are done.

Anyone else think I'm missing something or any other suggestions? this method should apply for all years, with the exception of B18c's have to remove the block girdle to get at the rods.


As far as the swapping parts question, look through the many articles and common topics we have. good luck.
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Old 12-09-2004, 08:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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This stroker article at Hondatuning covers plastigauge checking
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Old 12-09-2004, 08:38 AM   #7 (permalink)
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thanks for the help iuno if i wanna do all that or not im thinking about a new motor its so much easier,this is my only car so i have to get it back on the road asap
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Old 12-09-2004, 09:04 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Swapping in a new motor is not Nearly as easy or fast as people make it sound. not to mention it costs more, and you need to check the clearances before you put in the "new" rebuilt motor anyways.
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