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Old 11-27-2004, 12:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Ok everybody, there isnt much help with the auto transmission oil change. So i decided to put some pics and some help for novices like me. I used those 1/2 torque bars since my regular small one wouldnt turn the bolt. I used honda ATF, run me around 16-17 bucks for 4 quarts. Here are the pics:

You can see the torque bar i used, i think its with the 3/8 extention piece that goes in to the drain plug. You have to jack up the front passenger side to get access to this area, you do not need to take off the tire.


Picture of dipstick, which i loosened to clear any vacuum build up.


Following 2 pictures of the plug removed



Picture of the plug cleaned. Make sure you clean the plug since it may have alot of metal filings. I cleaned it up, as no more ATF drained out, i put it back on.


Put NEW ATF fluid the nice PINK stuff, checked dipstick and was good to go!
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Old 11-27-2004, 12:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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How did the transmission act afterwards? Smoother? Quicker?

I've been needing to do this to mine for quite some time.
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Old 11-27-2004, 12:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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No difference felt. May be a little better shifting thats about it. I guess changing ATF fluid is a good preventative issue rather than putting in a new transmission.
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Old 11-27-2004, 12:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Good write up. A few members have asked about this.
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Old 11-27-2004, 12:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yes very good write up you need to do this about every 10,000-15,000 miles depending on how hard you drive it. Very nice article.
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Old 11-27-2004, 01:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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nice pics! changing the ATF is very easy and is a really really good thing to do to our Honda automatics. changing the fluid resulted in noticably smoother shifting and just overall better performance on my 94 Integra with 150k miles. (when I started autox racing it I changed it more frequently.)

a few more tips:
-only use genuine Honda ATF. it has special additives that these transmissions need to last. $12-20 for the fluid is well worth it.
-get a funnel with a 18"? hose *before* you do this, that's the only way to get new fluid down to the dipstick hole!
-also use a new crush washer for the drain plug, torque it properly, and check for leaks afterwards.
-after you put the new fluid in, start the car and slowly shift through the gears. maybe drive around the block. then check the fluid level again.
-remember that the torque converter retains about a quart of fluid, and there will probably be some left in the radiator. so don't think you're getting a complete flush with a simple fluid change. I'd change it more frequently because of that, especially on older cars.. probably once a year I'd say.
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Old 11-27-2004, 01:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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eek

I'm about 50,000 miles over due.
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Old 11-28-2004, 01:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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this is easier than replacing engine oil, cause with engine oil you have to mess with a filter. This was damn easy with a torque bar. Just make sure you have a long neck funnel. Better than paying someone big bucks to keep in cheap oil.
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Old 11-28-2004, 03:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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good write up, also what tegtronic added is good too....i did those same procedures on my old accord after i had a problem w/it slipping out of gear......it was really easy, and after i did that, everything was fine and it ran really smooth. i guess i just had some old fluid! lol
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Old 11-28-2004, 03:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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do people use the redline or some of the other stuff?
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Old 11-28-2004, 03:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Exactly where would the drain plug be? It might sound stupid but what exactly is the purpose of using a torque wrench over a socket?
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Old 11-28-2004, 03:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Not to burst your bubble..but doing this is pointless.. you don't even get half of the fluid in the auto trannies out. Most of the fluid remains in the torque convertor, this is why they have automatic trans flush machines at shops. Hence also why you dont do a flush on a manual. Sorry to be the asshole here but someone had to say it.
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Old 11-28-2004, 03:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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A torque wrench is pretty much pointless when taking off a bolt. It will act just like any other wrench, except that you can only put a certain amount of pressure on it. However, when you are putting the bolt back on and you need to tighten it to certain torque specs, you can set the wrench to click when it reaches a certain tightness. So then you can torque bolts to match the factory specs, which is a big deal for certain bolts in key engine parts.
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Old 11-28-2004, 04:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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thanx but in regards to shadowhunters comments, how exactly is it done at the shop? They use a machine to flush it?
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