It sure is nice to be "out-of-the-hole" with all the "heavy metal" structural work done. I still have to flare the quarters and complete the outer wheel wells, but at least I'm not climbing through and crawling under to get in and out of the engine compartment. With the hatch removed, I have room to stand up while in "the hole". You can imagine performing this conversion on a Civic hatchback, having to be crouched over to clear the roof.
This pic shows the fuel door welded into its new location. The hole left when the fuel door was cut out was patched with the piece cut to make the hole for the new location. You can also see the cuts made horizontally across the top and vertically through the wheel well center to allow for flaring the quarter panel.
This pic shows a detail of the fuel door from the outside.
From the inside, you can see the steel tube I welded to the spill drain below the filler neck hole. In its original location, this drain hole was open to the wheel well so spills ended up on the ground. In the new location, Iíll run a piece of tubing down through a hole already in the rocker panel so spills end up on the ground and not inside the quarter panel.
The next 3 pics show the fuel tank from a 1st gen. MR2 mounted horizontally behind the seats. In this pic you can see the fuel inlet hole on the side of the tank and the fuel pump and sending unit holes on top.
In this view from the passenger door, you can see where the center tunnel was cut to allow the tank to sit on the floor, as low as possible. The structure beneath and on each side of the tunnel has been reinforced with angle iron to replace the strength lost from cutting the tunnel.
Hereís the tank viewed from the rear. There will be a steel firewall, sealed to the floor and back side of the door posts, which covers the tank and continues rearward to cover the engine compartment.
To give you an idea of how this kind of project proceeds, I figured once I had the tank mounted and fuel door in, I would proceed with the filler neck. But I need to complete flaring the quarter panels so the fuel door is in its final location. To do the flares, I need to mount the cross members, bolt up the suspension, and mount the wheels and tires so I can be sure of proper tire clearance. But now I need the tie rods in to hold the wheel and tire true through the suspension travel. So right now, instead of the filler neck, Iím working on getting the inner tie rod end mounted for proper bump steer. one thing leads to anotherÖ
In the next update, Iíll show how I modified the Prelude rear tie rods for toe adjustment and located the inner pivot for bump steer control.