How To: Change all coolant hoses without intake removal - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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How To: Change all coolant hoses without intake removal

I recently changed all fourteen coolant hoses on my 95 GSR at 230,000 miles.
Eight of the hoses I ordered from Acura, one I got from O’Reileys and the remaining four were made from 5/16 and 5/8-inch straight hose.
These are the diagrams
Diagram A – Radiator Hoses
RADIATOR HOSE for 1995 Acura INTEGRA HATCHBACK

Ref Part # Descr
9 79721-ST7-000
HOSE A, WATER INLET

10 19501-P72-000
HOSE, WATER (UPPER)


Diagram B – Water Valve
WATER VALVE for 1995 Acura INTEGRA HATCHBACK

Ref Part # Descr
7 79722-ST7-000
HOSE B, WATER INLET

9 19502-P72-000
HOSE, WATER (LOWER)

11 79725-ST7-000
HOSE, WATER OUTLET


Diagram C – Water Hose (3)
WATER HOSE (3) for 1995 Acura INTEGRA HATCHBACK

Ref Part # Descr Notes
2 19422-PR3-000
HOSE, OIL COOLER IN.

3 19423-P72-000
**DISCONTINUED** HOSE, OIL COOLER OUTLET
Acura discontinued - use Gates 18400
4 19503-P72-000
HOSE, CONNECTING PIPE B
Acura discontinued - use 1/2 inch straight hose
6 Unknown HOSE, ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL VALVE INLET Acura discontinued - use 5/16 inch straight hose
7 19506-P72-000
HOSE, ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL VALVE IN.
I used 5/16 inch straight hose combining 7 & 14
8 19507-P72-000
HOSE, ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL VALVE OUTLET
Acura discontinued - use 5/16 inch straight hose
9 19508-P72-000
HOSE, BYPASS OUTLET

13 19521-P72-000
HOSE, WAX IN.

14 19527-P72-000
HOSE A, BREATHER HEATER
I used 5/16 inch straight hose combining 7 & 14

All coolant hoses can be replaced with the intake manifold in place and the motor still in the car, but the block to intake bracket must be removed.
Generally, these were the steps I followed.

1. Drive car onto lift and set parking brake.

2. Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.

3. Remove strut tower brace.

4. Working under car, remove lower radiator splash shield.

5. Drain radiator coolant.

6. Working above car, disconnect fuel line at fuel filter.

7. Disconnect and remove air filter box.

8. Disconnect the intake air duct at throttle body and remove duct.

9. Using needle-nose pliers compress the two barbs under the block to intake manifold bracket in order to allow the electrical wire zip tie and convoluted tubing to move back away from the block to intake manifold bracket bolt.
a.


10. Remove one 12 mm bolt from block to intake manifold bracket.

11. Lift car to working height.

12. Place catch pan under oil filter and remove filter.
a.


13. Release the EGR valve wiring from the block to intake bracket and move wiring out of the way.

14. Remove two 10 mm upper bolts on block to intake bracket.

15. Loosen the two heater hose bypass bracket bolts sufficiently to allow the hose bracket to be moved backward. The hose bracket holes are open-sided, thus the bolts do not need to be completely removed from the bracket.
16. Remove two lower 12 mm bolts from block to intake bracket. Note the left bolt is longer than the right. See the below pic of bracket bolts.
a.


17. Remove the block to intake bracket. I pryed the heater hose bypass bracket rearward sufficiently to clear the block to intake manifold bracket so that it could be moved about three inches toward the driver side. The 5/16 inch electronic air control valve to connecting pipe hose must also be pulled away from the bracket to enable it to slide by. Note the hose must be removed from the 5/16 inch bracket clip as shown below.
a.


18. Below is a pic of the block to intake manifold bracket after removal. Total of seven bolts are removed, one electrical zip-tie is cut (insufficient room to release clips), one electrical connector clip is removed (O2 sensor), and one electrical barb connector is released (1-inch diameter convoluted tubing). All these have to be completed before it can be removed.
a.


19. Remove 30 mm oil cooler mount bolt. I used a 36 inch breaker bar. This allows the oil cooler to drop down enough so that I could reach the two hose clamps at the oil cooler to crossover pipe and oil cooler to block nipple.

20. Remove spring clamp for oil cooler to crossover pipe and disconnect hose at crossover pipe.
a.


21. Place coolant catch can under oil cooler.

22. Remove spring clamp for oil cooler to block nipple and disconnect hose at nipple. This is where about another two quarts of coolant drained when hose was removed.

23. Remove oil cooler and two attached hoses from car.

24. Below pic is cooler after removal.
a.


25. Working under car, remove hose clamp for heater bypass pipe to connecting pipe at connecting pipe. Remove hose at connecting pipe.

26. Remove two heater hose spring clamps at firewall. I did this from below the car since the hose clamp ends were pointed downward and difficult to access from above.

27. Remove spring clamp of 5/16-inch electronic air control valve hose at crossover tube. This clamp was aligned with ends above the hose, however I was able to easily rotate the clamp so that the ends were below the hose and thus accessible to remove. Also note I was unable to reach the hose spring clamp at the electronic air control valve from below or above, and decided to remove the valve from the intake manifold in order to replace the two hoses.

28. From the top side of the car, remove the electronic air control valve electrical connector and two 10 mm mounting bolts.

29. Below is a pic of the valve after the two mounting bolts were removed along with the electrical plug. Note the orientation and length of the hoses. Both hoses are discontinued from Acura. I cut my new 5/16-inch electronic air control valve to connecting pipe hose what I thought was the exact same length, only to find that it should be a couple inches longer to make a better fit without the custom bends.
a.


30. Replace the two hoses and remount the valve to the manifold and install the electrical connector.

31. Place a catch can under the two heater hoses at the firewall.

32. From the top side of the car, remove the two heater hoses at the firewall. This will likely result in another quart of fluid being released. I made a single lengthwise 1-inch-long cut in the hose to relieve tension and make removal at the brass heater connection easier. Inserting a screwdriver in the cut and working back and forth I was able to remove the hose easily. I found the hoses to be very soft, so be careful if cutting the hose to avoid damage to the underlying brass nipple.

33. I believe all the hoses on my car were factory installed, however upon removal of the head to valve hose I found the brass tube had been flattened slightly. It seemed odd to be damaged from the factory install, however I did not make any attempt to correct it but left it as-is.
a.


34. Remove the water valve plastic housing by sliding a slot screwdriver down the firewall side of the cover clip and rotating slightly to disengage the clip. See the below pic of the clip
a.


35. Remove the Bowden cable clip securing it to the bracket by sliding a slot screwdriver between the firewall end of the clip and the bracket. Gently rotating the screwdriver causes the clip to pop up and be retained on the bracket at the engine side and allow the cable to be removed from the valve. See the below pic of the released clip.
a.


36. Remove the 10 mm nut securing the water valve bracket to the firewall.

37. Remove the spring clip at the head to valve hose (#7) and remove the hose from the head.

38. Remove the valve and two hoses from the car as a unit.

39. Remove the heater hose and heater bypass pipe as a unit. You will need to work the hoses around a bit, but be gentle and they can be removed without excessive force.

40. Below pic shows the hoses and bypass tube removed as a unit along with available hose part number. Note the left hose (#4) is not available from Acura but can be replaced with a 5/8-inch straight hose.
a.


b.


41. Below pic shows the valve and hoses removed as a unit. Note the valve is soft plastic and use of a knife to remove the hose can result in damage to the valve nipple as shown in the below pic.
a.


b.


42. Install the four replacement hoses on the bypass and valve assemblies, being careful to maintain the same orientation as the originals. Using liquid dish soap on the inside of the hose and the nipple makes installation much easier. I also reinstalled the OEM spring hose clamps at the tube and valve ends, but left the clamps about 2 inches from the open hose ends to facilitate installation over the nipple.
43. Install the two replacement hoses on the oil cooler, being careful to maintain the same orientation as the originals. Again install the hose clamps.
44. One of the two oil cooler hoses is available from Acura, and one is not. I was unable to locate an exact aftermarket replacement for the oil cooler outlet hose (#3), however I found the Gates 18400 hose was close in curvature and the correct inch diameter, so I used it instead.

45. Below pic shows the original and the replacement hose.
a.



46. From above the car, install the new hoses with heater bypass pipe assembly by gently sliding it under the intake manifold and around existing wiring.

47. Lubricate the heater core end of the hose with liquid dish soap and install it over the driver side brass core outlet. I oriented the spring clamp downward as I found it easier to install clamp from below.

48. From above the car, install the new hoses with water valve assembly.

49. Lubricate the heater core end of the hose with soap and install it over the passenger side brass core outlet. I oriented the spring clamp downward as I found it easier to install clamp from below.

50. Attach the heater valve bracket to the firewall with 10 mm nut.

51. Install the Bowden cable loop onto the valve arm.

52. Install the clip onto the bracket securing the cable.

53. Install the water valve plastic cover.

54. Install the hose A, water inlet hose (#7) at the head. Significant corrosion may exist on this aluminum fitting, thus cleaning with a wire brush may be required.

55. From under the car, verify the hose, connecting pipe B (#4) is routed correctly and ready to be attached to the connecting pipe nipple. If so, install hose and clamp as shown in below pic.
a.



56. Verify the 5/16-inch hose electronic air control valve outlet (#8) is routed correctly and install hose and clamp at connecting pipe. Note this hose will be clipped by the small plastic bracket at the driver end of the connector tube bracket once installation is complete.

57. Install the two hose clamps at the heater core if not already completed.

58. Install the oil cooler assembly. I positioned it first, then installed the two hoses to the block nipple and connecting pipe, installed the clamps and then bolted it back in place. The oil cooler O ring was not firmly attached to the cooler so I added some wheel bearing grease to the O ring groove and it held in position while the 30 mm bolt was attached. Be certain the oil cooler alignment bracket is centered over the alignment tang on the block.

59. I also reinstalled the block to intake bracket, although some on the forum say it’s not necessary. I recommend installing the two 10 mm bolts at the rearmost end of the bracket before attempting to position it. Getting those two small bolts installed is difficult after the bracket is already in position on the car. Allow sufficient exposed threads to insert the bypass hose bracket.

60. Gently work the bracket back into position, moving hoses and wiring out of the way as necessary. Remember the 5/16-inch hose electronic air control valve outlet (#8) must be on the driver side of the bracket once installed. I used a long screwdriver to move things around during the installation.

61. Install the lower bracket bolts remembering the driver bolt is longer than the passenger bolt. I was unable to install the upper bolts without pulling the lower bolts down almost snug to the block.

62. Install the upper bracket bolts to the intake. I used inch sockets, extensions and u-joint to get this installed. This is an awkward orientation so be careful and verify the thread alignment is good before pulling the bolts down snug.

63. Install the oil filter.

64. From above the car remove the three hoses in the thermostat area. See the below pic after removal.
a.

b. My car had corrosion on two of the nipples and had to be cleaned.

65. Install and fasten the upper right block to intake bracket bolt. I used a flexible pickup-tool to hold the bolt in place while I started the threads. I recommend a mechanical holder rather than magnetic because if you drop the bolt it’s a pain to find it again. I know this by experience.
a.


66. Snug the bolt and then replace the electrical connector zip tie into the bracket.

67. Install the 5/8-inch hose, bypass outlet (# 9). This is tough to install, be certain to lubricate the hose and nipple. I installed both spring clamps to the hose middle, then installed the top hose end. After it was positioned correctly I installed the spring clamp. Then I moved the remaining spring clamp as close to the first as possible. This gave me maximum flexibility to bend the hose allowing installation over the nipple. Install the second spring clamp.

68. Install the custom cut 5/16-inch hose, wax in. (#13 no longer available from Acura), Throttle body to intake.

69. Below is the completed assembly.
a.


70. The stock breather pipe consisting of two Siamese metal tubes was missing from my car. I simply combined hoses #7 & #14 into one single custom-length 5/16-inch hose and attached between the thermostat and the head inlet.

71. Install upper radiator hose.

72. Install lower radiator hose.

73. Close radiator drain petcock.

74. Install intake air duct.

75. Install air filter box and element.

76. Attach fuel line to fuel filter.

77. Open the head air bleed bolt.

78. Fill radiator until head air bleed bolt discharges fluid.

79. Close head air bleed bolt.

80. Attach negative battery cable.

81. Check for incomplete wire and hose connections.

82. Start engine and check for leaks.

83. Run engine to operating temperature

84. Recheck leaks, refill radiator and oil if necessary.

85. Install lower dust valence.

86. Embarrassing as it is, I spent about 15 hours completing these tasks. Not having a multitude of cool spring-clamp removal tools or detail descriptions of the sequence obviously hindered my speed. I did have access to a lift which was very beneficial. My hats off to you guys who can do this task in a couple hours working with nothing but a floor jack and a screwdriver. Hope this helps someone along the way.
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Last edited by MorningZ; 11-09-2016 at 03:00 PM.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-09-2016, 01:55 AM
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sweet!

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-09-2016, 03:01 PM
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About as complete a write up as possible... nice work... a LOT of work!

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-09-2016, 04:07 PM
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Man, how long did it take you to type all of that up? Great post! i'm sure this will come in handy for a ton of people on here. Actually...where was this in March of this year, i really could have used it!!

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