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Old 10-27-2010, 01:32 AM   #1 (permalink)
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so i just bout a running b18b1 out of a 96 Rs with about 215000 k with every thing but the starter and alternator for 150$$

i have a 99 ls 5 speed with 220xxxx

and i wana rebuild the motor i have just got what do you all think of this?--- http://www.rpmmachine.com/engine-reb...ts-acura.shtml

the b18b1 major engine kit.
and get the block machined bored ex..
in the end i wana ls/vtec it and have at least 180 hp

any info would be very very very helpfull!!
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Old 10-27-2010, 03:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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just curious, what would make you want to rebuild? are there signs of motor failure or weakness? those might be things to take in to consideration before investing in a rebuild but they can definitely be rewarding. you plan on doing it yourself?
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Old 10-27-2010, 03:47 AM   #3 (permalink)
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well winter is comeing around so it will be all apart i have friends that know what there doing so i will have them help.

i wana rebuild it bc it was 215xxxx km and i want it stronger for when i get that ls/vtec started

all i really wana do is get it machined and over bore to like 82. or so get some new better pistons, but im still reading and takeing it all in so any sugestions would help a lot.
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Old 10-27-2010, 05:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95noobteg on Oct/26/10
so i just bout a running b18b1 out of a 96 Rs with about 215000 k with every thing but the starter and alternator for 150$$

i have a 99 ls 5 speed with 220xxxx

and i wana rebuild the motor i have just got what do you all think of this?--- http://www.rpmmachine.com/engine-reb...ts-acura.shtml

the b18b1 major engine kit.
and get the block machined bored ex..
in the end i wana ls/vtec it and have at least 180 hp

any info would be very very very helpfull!!



thats hell of a deal!
are you on a budget? or you have cash to blow?
I asume you won't be using this engine and have a DD already, this way you have time?
When you mean bored do you mean over bored or just hone the cylinder walls? you can hone it at home from loaner tools at oreily's
Also did you mean 180bhp or 180whp?
Ls/v is fairly easy to reach just 180whp...a proper minor bolton setup should get you near there...also you wouldn't need to be bored over unless your wanting big numbers...

I was looking for rebuild kits myself for my B1 as I am preparing it for boost, those prices seem good if they are a reputable site and OE spec..IMO for gastkets and seals oem would be best.. but people may deffer...

check out this SITE(click on OEM HoNDA and look for top end kits and bottom end kits... these are OEM kits that are pretty darn complete and cheap from what I found! maybe someone else could show us another site?

but as tlangy mentioned... you might not really need a overhauled major rebuild inspect the engine and see what needs attention unless you have the cash to throw away shit why not!
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Old 10-27-2010, 10:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
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well im not 100% to worred about cash it will all come in time ,i dont have much but thats why i got the motor and not working on my dd engine like you said blk_dc

dont plan on puting this engine in my car for like 1-2 years....

i was thinking about boreing but this hone you speack of might save me some money yes??
i want close too 170-180 whp but then i dont wana be spending 5 grand on it when i could have just saved for a gsr engine.

thnx for the help
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Old 10-27-2010, 01:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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well if you have a longgg term goal then just research research research,, slowly save and build as you go...
choose what you think would best for your goals, cash, and comfort... its your ideas and thoughts we can only give you our opinions.. *cough* boost the b18b1 *coughhhh* lol


boring(If i am correct.. so please anyone chim in and correct me... but I'm pretty damn sure) will just inscrease the bore size of cylinder walls... thus giving you more power because of a larger displacement after the bore...
Honing only cleans in insides of cylinder walls.. like honing a knife to keep the edge sharp..

So if you meant boring as in performance then no honing will not do crap lol but if you meant boring as in cleaning the cylinder walls yes you can save money buy just honing them but won't gain any extra ponies from it..


170-180 is fairly easy and achievable in many ways... again it just depends on what you come up within your research that you feel is best for you

b18b1 boost it or go ls/v... either of them will get you to your goals for less of the price as a GSR swap.. you could probably hit 200+ EASILY for less than the price of gsr swap if you can find good deals and DIY.. ITR swap is about 5k lol and I still wouldn't get that id put it into my B1 =D

but thats my opinion lol everyone to their own
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Old 10-27-2010, 02:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Well an ls engine with 403's, pr3/p30 pistons, bolt ons & a good tune can easily get you 170whp. Might as well go this route if you are planing on rebuilding the engine & don't plan on wanting more power. unless you just want a lsvtec just to say you have vtec.
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Old 10-27-2010, 03:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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so you saying with good pistons and header ex... i could make 170 whp?


ok here it is the big one.. ls/vtec or boost.... i have thout about this and i change my mind ever week about it:P
i think it would be bad ass to have a n/a integra that pulls hard but i could spend less and pull harder with boost.

if i boost what would i need to do to the engine like gasket ex.. seeing it has 215xxxxk

if i boost i would want atleast 250 whp but reliable!


how would this do. p30 pistons with a used Greddy 25g T67 turbo with 550 injectors
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Old 10-27-2010, 03:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueTeg on May/01/03
200bhp (170whp) is possible on a street driven LS, but you're pushing the envelope.

To keep things simple, lets refer to your peak power goal in "whp". A powerband of 5000-6500 should be assumed for such a high peak whp figure. So we've established that you want a high rpm powerband, yes? Good. Lets see what type of parts and specs you'll need to get there:

Intake: short ram (preferably with an icebox housing)
TB: bore out TB to match your IM (see MD's article for specs)
IM: big plenum, long and fat runers (skunk2 or ITR)
Cams: something with long duration, high lift, and tight LSA (I recommend Crower 403 or 404 for your power goals). Don't forget the peripherial tuning parts that go along with these....adjustable cam gears, stiffer valve springs, fpr and fpr gauge
Port and polish on your head would help you. See an experienced engine builder........I wouldn't know where to start advising on the specs for a PnP.
Pistons: B16a pistons will net you a higher CR (this will be key in to getting the most out of your cams) to really take advantage of the aggressive cam profile. They bolt directly onto your LS rod (no modification necessary)
Header: 4-1 with a 2.5" collector (assumes that you're not getting a custom hybrid header built). The JDM ITR or DC Sports JDM headers are very affordable options
Cat: 2.5" Carsound or Renault high flow cat
Cat-back: 2.5" piping with the b-bipe flange bottleneck snipped out. Muffler should be a straight thru or twin pass design
Fuel tuning: a standalone ECU would be best. Hondata would probably be a good option for you, I'd stay away from an SAFC with a setup this advanced.

You should be able to hit 165 whp at your stock redline with this setup. Theoretically it should pull harder around 7200-7400 rpms......but that means a raise of the redline and you stated that a major concern for you was reliability.

In order for you to raise the redline and maintain some reliability you'll have to look into swapping rods and cranks to get your R/S ratio up higher (1.75 is considered ideal). Keep in mind that when you start swapping out the rods and cranks for better R/S ratio you'll also start losing displacement. In this case if you went with the same setup listed above and swapped in the SI crank to get that R/S ratio up to 1.77 you drop your displacement down to 1.59 liters. So, in order to make up for the lost displacement you'll want to consider boring and honing your block. 85mm bore + new sleeves from GE + 185922 pistons from JE + SI crank + LS rods = a 1.76 liter engine w/ a 10+:1 static CR and a 1.77 rod stroke ratio that would happily rev to 7500 rpms and really let those cams breathe. The higher redline will really allow you to exploit that engine package which is designed for a high rpm powerband like 5000-7000 rpms.

Don't underestimate the importance of tuning this setup! You'll really want to tune it well to see max gains from this combo. And by all means: don't forget to tie in your transmission to your powerband. A high rpm powerband combined with our wide ass LS tranny will leave you with "your pants down" on the upshift as you'll fall way outside your powerband. A less powerful car with properly geared tranny for his/her powerband will eat you up every time you have to grab another gear. SurferX has an excellent article on gearing relationships in the articles section.

......Who ever said this hobby was cheap?
n/a motor (b18b) to 200hp
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Old 10-27-2010, 10:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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so if i found some new p30 pistons would i have to get it bored at all or could i just hone them to clean it all out..?

and what i have read that will put my comp up to 10 something = 10%-15% more power or along those lines?


when i race i shift at 6 grand lol is it ok to go to 7 or is that pushing it on my stock stuff
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Old 10-27-2010, 11:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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95noobteg, you really need to do alot of research before attemping this rebuild. First off for piston, you can't just go out there and buy p30 pistons, you have to know what size you want. For example b18a stock bore is 81mm. If those p30 piston you got was 81mm you would just rehone your cylinders and put in these pistons making sure that the piston to wall clearance and new rings are within specs. If those p30 piston you bought was oversize 81.25mm or 81.5mm you would have to bore out your cylinders and get your piston to wall clearance within specs too. If you want to know your actual static compression check this site out
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Old 10-27-2010, 11:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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yes i understand that but would it be smarter to bore first then find pistons that size or get pistons then bore to what have got?
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Old 10-27-2010, 11:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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get the pistons first, then take the piston and block to the machine shop and then have them measure the pistons and then bored the cylinders. You might want to tell them what piston to wall clearance you want too.
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Old 10-27-2010, 11:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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ok thank very much djboi any thing els i should do?
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