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Old 01-16-2010, 04:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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OK I searched all over and found many topics talking about cam seals, But never a walk through with step by step pics.
So I decided when I replaced mine I would make one, well here it is.

Also I used a billet cam seal with twin o-rings
Purchased on Ebay for $9.95 with free shipping I recieved it with in three days

Tools you will need include- ratchet with 1 inch extension and 10mm socket,
rubber mallet, razor blade, pliers, and a clean lint free rag, torque wrench.

Step one.

Identify that it is your cam seal leaking.




Step two.

Remove spark plug wire, valve cover dome nuts and washers, hose's, ground strap, and power steering line mount.




Step three.

Remove the casing from around the cam and cam seal, I removed the bolt and tapped lightly with a rubber mallet.



Step four.

Remove new cam seal from package and inspect the part for quality and fitment.




Step five.

Clean up the cam seal housing and surfice on witch it connects to the cylinder head.




Step six.

Install the new cam seal into the housing then place back onto the cylinder head.
( make sure there is no dirt or grease where the rubber o-rings go )



Step seven.

Reinstall bolts into the housing and torque spec's ( I used new outer ones, the old ones the thread did not look good. They are 6x1.0 mm overall length 1 3/4 inches long and the torque spec's are 7.2 lbs. pounds and you can also put some RTV or Hondabond between the o-ring insuring proper seal)



Step eight.

Reinstall valve cover, would not hurt to install new valve cover gasket make sure to use RTV sealent, Also
make sure you take the proper steps when installing the new valve cover gasket.




Step nine.

Admire your work and the new looks.



And there you have it

The next write up will cover the install if an oil filter relocation and cooler kit
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Old 01-16-2010, 04:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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only thing id add is to make sure you have some RTV sealant on hand as well to use on the edges of the valvecover gasket and putting a bead of it along the cam seal where the 0 rings are is also a good idea to make sure you never have to revisit the issue
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Old 01-16-2010, 04:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Added it
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Old 01-16-2010, 04:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Nice thread, id also add up what tools are needed.
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Old 01-16-2010, 04:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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ok will do
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Old 01-16-2010, 05:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Step 10: Degrease the rest of your engine
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Old 01-16-2010, 05:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i might add that its 7.2 in lbs not foot
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:39 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I will degrease the engine next month when i take it out
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:44 AM   #9 (permalink)
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nice write up i paid 40 extra bucks for Acura dealer them to change it back when I got my timming belt changed. I heard oem ones dont last long too.
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Old 01-18-2010, 02:56 AM   #10 (permalink)
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There is a thread around here about that. They had a design flaw in the older ones, the new ones just pop out and you can pop the new ones in. I like the billet one I can just get new o-rings for it if I have another problem. It might cost me a buck for the o-rings butI do have to remove the valve cover to do so but it's ok
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Old 01-18-2010, 05:21 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I will say this only once, I wish i did not have vtec when it comes to changing these damn things out!!!!! good write up
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:10 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by integrao on Jan/18/10
I will say this only once, I wish i did not have vtec when it comes to changing these damn things out!!!!! good write up
lol and doing a valve lash adjustment
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
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lol nice, i did this EXACT thing same plug from ebay and everything on saturday. i used HT Hondabond instead of RTV and I replaced the VC gasket too (which i do every time I open the VC up)

Good write up tho!
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Excellent write. Very straight forward and easy to understand.
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