Drilled or Slotted Rotors?? - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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first of all i searched the articles and didnt find anything but how to replace a rotor. i was wondering if someone could tell me the difference between drilled and slotted rotors. which would be best for every day driving, and no autocross racing or anything just everday average driving, and i would prefer wichever ones are better for hard hard breaking, which ones would have a higher resistance to warping and hot spotting? also, what kind of pads should i get with a drilled or slotted rotor setup? going on a 97 gsr, with jdm gsr motor. thanks a lot.
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post #2 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 07:28 PM
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Get Brembo OEMs. There is absolutly no need for drilled/slotted rotors on a daily driver. Unless you want to tell all your 'not so bright' friends you have slotted rotors so they will think your cool, go for it!

Again, I suggest brembo oems, you will be happy, and all that money you saved on the not needed part you can put back into your car!

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post #3 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 07:30 PM
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Brake Pad and Rotor Installation

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post #4 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 07:32 PM
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Drilled is what it sounds like, theres holes drilled in it. You SHOULD NOT do that youreself, as simply drilling holes in the rotor, instead of them being cast or forged in will cause the rotors to crack in no time. Even originally drilled rotors are not as durable as blanks. Slotted roters, if not reffering to internally vented, are rotors with slots cut into them. Drilling and slotting do not serve to cool the rotor very much, they are done to provide a path for gasses formed while braking to escape. Cooling is a fucntion primarily of simple surface area, and the cooling fins built inbetween the rotor faces. For daily driving the best rotors are blanks that you can get from napa/autozone/schucks etc. Rotors are a wear item, and unless you road race you're car, blank rotors will suffice 99% of the time, will last longer, and will be cheaper to replace. If you want to reduce brake fade for the street, invest in some good quality street/auto-x pads like the EBC green stuff. Do not make the mistake of buying race pads, as race pads need to be hot to be effective, and daily driving they will probably land you a fender bender.

P.S. You could have found this information by searching the forum, but by writing this I can drop it in common topics ;-p.

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post #5 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 07:38 PM
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i have powerslot slotted rotors on my car and ebc green stuff pads, and i love it. braking was much improved over my stock setup. the rotors give a vibration under braking, but it is easy to get used to, and as long as you know what it is, isnt a worry. the whole setup cost me about 300-350(i cant remember for sure) for front and rear slotted rotors and front and rear pads.

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post #6 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 10:33 PM
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thanks to neo and his visit with Mike B. at Comptech for this "nice" brake explanation:

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gassing out the brake gas is the slots or crossdrilled holes' function...not cooling...if you want to cool the rotors get a set of [url=http://www.ioportracing.com/bumperduct.htm]ducts[url] and dryer hose from Home Depot and run it to the center of your rotor from your air dam...trust me, unless you are lapping on the track , you aren't going hard enough to need brake duct work...the temps aren't high enough.

SurferX: bite your tongue, grin, and bare it when you see "Comptech"....

on this one they are spot on...

PS I suggest slotted over crossdrilled (even though I was suckered into getting the latter)...definitely do not drill the rotors...the good ones are casted with the holes in place in the mold...no drilling...as was said, drilling = cracking GUARANTEED.
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post #7 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 11:38 PM
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I don't see why you'd need slotted or cross drilled for everyday driving. Even some racers in the Honda Challenge admit they did not improve their lap times with slotted or drilled rotors and still elect to use blanks. I think modern brake pad technology has surpassed alot of the need for these types of rotors. They may still help slightly, depending on your braking habits at the track. But for daily driving, I think it's all show.

I remember one of the driver's laughing when I asked him about the brakes on his car and he said, "Some of the street racer boys run bigger brake setups for going to school and getting grocieries than we do on our competition car."
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post #8 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 11:42 PM
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As long as you don't get wheel covers with disc brake simulators.....
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post #9 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 11:42 PM
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Espeically considering it cuts down on surface area. The less there is to cause friction upon, the less there is to slow you down as well.

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post #10 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 11:44 PM
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I recommend Brembo Blanks
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post #11 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 11:48 PM
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I recommend cheap autozone blanks. Actually, any blank for that matter. It's not that hard to may a blank rotor.
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post #12 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hootb18 on Jun/19/03
Espeically considering it cuts down on surface area. The less there is to cause friction upon, the less there is to slow you down as well.
Friction and surface area are independent. Bigger rotors do not stop faster because of their larger size.
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post #13 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 11:53 PM
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That's because the contact surface of the pad/rotor remains unchanged when using a bigger rotor.
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post #14 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 11:55 PM
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Basic physics dictates that surface area has no effect on friction. So even a larger caliper (larger swept area) doesn't really do much.

Larger rotors generally stop faster because the increased surface area allows for greater cooling.
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