Rotted rear trailing arm bushings. Replacement? - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-20-2011, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Question Rotted rear trailing arm bushings. Replacement?

I've figured out what was wrong. Please go to my last post to view my new question.

It's progressively getting worse. For a little over a month now if I've let the car sit for over a day, then get in to go somewhere; I'll get in the car and shift into reverse to back out of my drive way, everything's fine at this point, but once I start to let the car move I hear a loud clunk from the back and it feels like I get a sudden weight shift in the back.

I have no real idea what it could be but I assume it might be worn out part(s) settling then having a sudden disturbance from movement but I really don't know what it could be. I haven't looked at anything yet, I haven't had the time to do any work on the car lately.

Let me know what you guys think it could be, what I can do to check/fix it.


Last edited by 95TeggyRacer; 04-05-2011 at 02:46 PM. Reason: Solved, but new questions
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-20-2011, 01:14 PM
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the clunk comes from the back of the car?!
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-20-2011, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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Ya it comes from the rear 1/3~1/4 of the car.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-20-2011, 02:03 PM
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This is going to be a trailing arm bushing,wheel bearing,control arm bushings or loose shock/tire.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-20-2011, 02:13 PM
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Is your spare tire properly secured? J/K

I would agree with the trailing arm bushing theory.


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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-20-2011, 02:20 PM
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It might also be a sticky caliper as well.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Alright so I now know what the cause is. I took the car to a local shop for an oil change and inspection. When they finished they came and told me my rear trailing arm bushings were rotted out. They also told me it would be in the ball park of $770 for them to replace them at the shop.

My new question is, can I do this myself/ are there alternatives to just replacing the bushings?

The shop said I need a specific tool from Acura just to replace the bushings.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 03:02 PM
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You could do it your self for way less. Just look at the articles, the bushing tool is recommended

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 03:05 PM
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I've seen people selling the tool for $110 and renting it on automotivespecialtytool.net for much less. It's a weekend job by yourself, a 1 day job with a friend that's done it before. It took me and BigMac88 a day and then a half a day by myself without the tool. No way would I EVER pay $800 for that job.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 03:19 PM
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I did both of mine within a couple of hours by myself with the tool. I rented my tool to a local TI'er & it took him 2 days.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, I just spent the last hour or so researching and I've come down to two types of replacements. Spherical bearings or rubber. I'd like the spherical after reading that they offer greater handling over rubber, but I haven't found any answers as to how long they last before needing to be replaced.

Does anyone know how long they last?

My car currently doesn't see any track use however it is a daily that sees a lot of very spirited driving. With this info which would be a better solution?
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 04:13 PM
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It isn't a bearing, it's a bushing. Hardrace makes some, so does Energy Suspension (Polyurethane) which are great for handling but make the rear end squeak quite a bit. I'd recommend the ES bushings but feel free to go OEM and get the rubber if you want more comfort and less noise.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 04:22 PM
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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I wasn't as clear as I should've been when I said bearing. What I was referring to were the bearings made by Blox and PCI



I'd like to stay away from poly due to all the threads I've gone through on other sites saying they bind and don't reform from impacts the way rubber does.

I doubt I'd mind the harshness of a stiffer ride. I'm just trying to find out what other compromises I'd have to make if I went with bearings instead of rubber.
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