Ripping the motor out soon.. need parts advice. - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Ripping the motor out soon.. need parts advice.

My B18C1 smokes, and makes like 170psi compression in Cyl 1. Motor has 226k miles, so I will be rebuilding it. Hopefully by mid-March, I will be at the reassembly stage of my stock B18C1.

Somethings are given like ARP's, new pump, timing belts & tensioner, seals, etc.. but what else and what brands? Clearly need new rings and head work, and thats planned..

EDIT: HP Goal - Stock (170hp..?) - No point to building if I can't tune OBD2 legally..

Here is my list so far:

Head bolts: ARP
Crankbolts: ARP (had these stretch and break on my B18B1 when I did that, so lets just plan on doing it.)
Rings: Hastings..? (Used them before, don't know anything about them)
Valve Seals: ???
Valve Springs / Retainers: ??? (if I need new ones, Ill replace them, just don't know what works well)
Clutch: Exedy? (not sure which specific one)
Water Pump: ???
Timing Belt / Tensioner: Dayco (used it before, no issues)
Head Gasket: Mr Gasket (looks legit)
Pan Gasket: Felpro
Valve Cover Gasket: Felpro

Not sure what else to do. Had thoughts of cams and block guard at the same time, but I do want to drive it daily, and not sure what cams (Skunk2, BC Racing or Crower) without tuning would do. Don't want to do the OBD2->OBD1 confusion. I just want to love this motor until its wasted, then do a K24/20 (a long ways in the future..).

Input would be nice, and if we can steer away from eBay stuff, that would be best imo.

Thanks in advanced for the input.

1996 Acura Integra RS Coupe - B18B1 - Gone
2006 Honda Civic EX Coupe - R18A1 - The Daily
1996 Acura Integra GS-R Coupe - B18C1 - My new love

Last edited by Pghpunkid; 02-17-2017 at 09:27 PM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:23 PM
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What are your goals for this car? Are you just staying stock?

As far as brands go.... OEM, OEM, OEM

There is literally millions of dollars in research & development when it comes to factory OEM parts. More money is spent than any other manufacture in the aftermarket field.

Head bolts: You can get away with the OEM bolts if you're staying N/A. The stock bolts have plenty of strength.
Crankbolts: See above
Rings: OEM Honda/Acura
Valve Seals: OEM Honda/Acura
Valve Springs: Re-use what you have. No need to upgrade unless you're going to be reving higher
Clutch: Again, what are your goals? If you're staying stock (or even a few bolt on's) stock OEM Honda/Acura
Water Pump: OEM Honda/Acura
Timing Belt: Gates or OEM (Gates manufactures Honda belts)
Head Gasket: OEM Honda/Acura
Pan Gasket: OEM Honda/Acura
Valve Cover Gasket: OEM Honda/Acura

Stay away from block guards. They warp your cylinder sleeves. But again, we don't know your goals to know what advice to give you





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Last edited by jjkz24; 02-17-2017 at 09:27 PM.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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HP Goals: Just stock. I don't see the benefit of doing crazy mods if I can't tune it with OBD2.. Ill save that for later. I just want to enjoy the GS-R and make it look nice. The stock HP will be fine for me.. for now.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pghpunkid View Post
HP Goals: Just stock. I don't see the benefit of doing crazy mods if I can't tune it with OBD2.. Ill save that for later. I just want to enjoy the GS-R and make it look nice. The stock HP will be fine for me.. for now.
Nice & simple. I like it.

No aftermarket cams needed. No aftermarket springs/retainers needed. Save your money with that stuff.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Does Honda even stock things like rings and timing belts and stuff anymore for this generation of cars? I would think if they do, they won't much longer..
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Pghpunkid View Post
Does Honda even stock things like rings and timing belts and stuff anymore for this generation of cars? I would think if they do, they won't much longer..
Most definitely. There's an abundance of parts. These types of things won't be discontinued for sometime. Most of the parts are the same & interchangeable from the US, UK, & Japan. It's a huge profit for Honda/Acura. They won't stop anytime soon.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 11:53 AM
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valve stem seals are only like 25 bucks for the full set(i have a set laying in my tool box just in case there was a time i couldn't buy them). that or your rings is most likely the oil smoke issue. i personally would just replace those and be done, but your car does have allot of miles and if you just want the knowledge and experience more power to you and i gots respekt. lol.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by popanollie View Post
valve stem seals are only like 25 bucks for the full set(i have a set laying in my tool box just in case there was a time i couldn't buy them). that or your rings is most likely the oil smoke issue. i personally would just replace those and be done, but your car does have allot of miles and if you just want the knowledge and experience more power to you and i gots respekt. lol.
The idea of it is exactly what I did when I had my RS. To get to either of those, you have to take the timing belt off. If you take the timing belt off, may as well replace it. And while you have access to the water pump, etc. Just do it now. Last time I had a B Series apart, I snapped the Connecting Rod bolts when torquing, so why not. Bearings, all that junk, its all gonna be accessible. May as well refresh the motor and have peace of mind!

I am about to start this here in the next few weeks, but first I have to get my 06' Civic back first. I just roasted the trans in that thanks to some dead seals and a lot of driving/bad weather in the last few weeks. Pretty sure it took on some water. I'm not doing the trans swap though.. those are NOT fun.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 03:42 PM
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Rod bolts on a b18b1 are weaker than a c1. The torque spec is only around 36lb so you shouldn't have to worry about them breaking from torquing them. I went with arp head studs for the hell of it but reused the main studs. Oem rings are your best bet unless you're going to over bore your cylinders past .25. Oem head gasket is a must don't gamble w anything else. There's a couple dif oil pan gaskets that are good. Oem, myhondahabit, and felpro makes a metal core one. Gates timing belt kit is a decent cost effective. Oem for the valve cover and tube seals. Everything else has leaked for me. Main and rod bearings are always a topic of debate but personally I went with king xp mains and oem rods. My mains were all green so standard size kings or acl would give me the right clearance. My rods were less consistent so I went with oem colors. Valve train just stick w oem and replace the valve seals w Oem or supertech. DO NOT upgrade cams without upgrading valve train AND a proper tune.


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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 08:43 PM
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stay away from gates water pumps, now supposedly made in china.
just had one go out after about 5 years/60k, not acceptable! 8(
nothing on the pump about country of origin. shortly
after i read about the china thing it started leaking lol.
now running npw brand, hopefully the made in japan quality will hang in there.
put in a new gates timing belt too, hopefully they cant mess that up.
fingers crossed. x
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by wino View Post
stay away from gates water pumps, now supposedly made in china.
just had one go out after about 5 years/60k, not acceptable! 8(
nothing on the pump about country of origin. shortly
after i read about the china thing it started leaking lol.
now running npw brand, hopefully the made in japan quality will hang in there.
put in a new gates timing belt too, hopefully they cant mess that up.
fingers crossed. x
This is the most ridiculous advice that you can give someone.

#1. 5/yrs, 60K isn't exactly a "short" time period of failure. There are a TON of factors on why any part (not just a water pump) can fail. A lot of temperature fluctuations, vibrations, etc makes a huge impact.

#2. Most of their products have a limited lifetime warranty

#3. Nobody knows what kind of life your specific water pump had to have a "premature failure", or what kind of coolant was used. Or, what the overall life of that specific engine was like. But again as stated above, I don't think 5/60is considered "premature failure"

#4. Gates has been manufacturing OEM products for many, many years, for many manufacturers. Something has to be said for their quality to be trusted by different car brands, especially as a company as big as Honda.

#5. For every water pump failure, there are 1 million other pumps working flawlessly. One person has an issue with a product, and they immediately take to the internet to voice their concern or recommendation. What you never hear are positive reviews from the substantially more positive experiences that people have. But, this is human nature, and can be applied to anything. You're more likely to hear about a bad experience at a restaurant, than a good one (for example).

Last edited by jjkz24; 03-19-2017 at 10:18 AM.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 09:02 PM
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burn me twice shame on me. not gonna happen. yamada is oem afaik.
60k is ok under extreme conditions. i replace every 90k,
never had any premature failure til now.
aisin, npw also good. done with gates. that is all. 8)

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...pics/2671466/1
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 09:45 PM
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Honda used numerous manufacturers: NSK, NGK, Aisin, Bando, Heihin, Nippon, Denso, Gates, along with Yamada.

Yamada was the manufacturer of pumps for all of the 5G Civics. Back when the Integra was still being produced, pumps were coming from Keihin, and then switched to Yamada. Those companies, were still utilizing the same manufacturer for their water pump bearings, and impellers.

Last edited by jjkz24; 03-19-2017 at 09:48 PM.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 06:26 AM
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Something to check or replace.
LMA (Lost Motion) Kit w/Keeper
Rear Main Seal
Exhaust and Intake Valve Guides
Valves

springs (dual)?
Camshaft?
Adjustable Cam gears?
Port and polish, Valve angle job?

Before you go out and buy rings. I would have a machine shop check the cylinder wall to see if it need an overbore.

Under 2 more years left. I can apply for Historic Tags for my GS/VTEC Automatic and no more SMOG

Last edited by phatintegra; 03-20-2017 at 06:29 AM.
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