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General performance help - Start here.

9K views 39 replies 8 participants last post by  Shuudoushi 
#1 · (Edited)
This is a thread for people who are having ongoing issues and a repository of information.

A list of resolved issues may be added as time goes and/or a list to other threads that may be of help for any issues you may have.

If your issue is not listed, or is not resolved in just a few post, then please make a new thread with as much info on the issue and car in question.

This is not meant to be a debate thread, if you want to debate "mod A" vs. "mod B" or what have you, please make a new thread.

Please note that information within the replies of this thread may be updated/changed as new or useful information becomes available. Also take note that foul language or swearing may be part of some post...

Helpful links:
Throttle Body and idle issues starter. @Gadget329's ongoing idle issues moved to this thread. (To the best of my knowledge, this issue has been resolved by the use of a new/used IAC. Check out Gadget's GSR Log for more info.)
"Will these spark plug wires work?"
Motor swap stuff.
Random misfire throughout rpm range - Moral of the story: Check your spark plugs, if cracked, investigate for an underlying issue.
Power loss troubleshooting
How to check for parasitic draw. - Parasitic draw is where something is using power from the battery even while the car is off. If your battery is dead every morning, check this link out.
Dyno charts with mods - This is a great thread for if you have a specific power goal in mind. Here you'll be able to see what's worked for other people in the past, and have a better idea on what you can do to meet your power goal.
No crank situations (Outside link) - A "no crank situation" is just what it sounds like, the car won't start for one reason or another. -- Credit to @tamboo for linking this in another thread.
Compression testing rundown - Short, sweet, simple. If anyone knows of a good write up, please link it to me!
What to do first? (After buying a new teg)
How to ask for help
What to do if you breakdown
Clutch replacement extras, and what to do in the event of a clutch failure.
FF Squad (FFS TechNet) - A giant listing of helpful ****, give it a look if you can't find anything on our site about what you need. If you still can't find what you need, or need a bit more info, then do make a post so we can hear you out.
Virt dyno vs. real dyno for tuning - If you're wondering if you should trust the virtual dyno print out or not. Short answer, not so much.
Transmission Rebuild info (B-series)
"I just bought a teg! What should I do to check it over?"

Issues others are having:
Vtec doesn't seem to be kicking in - May be getting moved to a new thread if not fixed here.
 
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#2 ·
Alright great idea! So I read what you said about freeing up the Iac. When I cleaned the Iac itself the plunger inside seemed to move freely I was able to move the plunger open and closed with my finger. I loaded the inside with Carb cleaner and covered all the holes and gave it a good shake and repeated until carbon buildup stopped coming out. I'm just going to order a new one tomorrow just to get the whole Iac idea out of the way. If it works that would be fantastic. I uploaded a video on my on my original thread but I'll repost it here.
http://youtu.be/MyAT5rNFguI
 
#3 · (Edited)
You may want to test the wires going into the IAC before you order a new/used one. If it's just a loose wire, it would save you quite a bit of money.

Edit: Doesn't the 95 still have a FIV? If so, try taking it off and plugging the holes and let it warm up and see if the issue is fixed. If it is, take the plate off of the end of the FIV and turn the white/gray plastic bit inside of it all the way to the bottom and back it off by a 1/4 turn, then put it back on after unplugging the holes. Wow that was a lot of "and's"...
 
#4 ·
I thought we went over this before? Hmm maybe it was" myb18b" but yes 95s do have Fit valves, but I do not have one because aftermarket throttle body. Fit valve is for cold startup, the only way that would have been a problem was if it was stuck open creating a leak, but I do not have a fitv because of my throttle body. I will check my wires when I get out if work and make sure they are indeed getting the right power and securely connected. Wouldn't a bad connection/not enough voltage throw a code?
 
#7 · (Edited)
Motor swap stuff.

A motor swap is not an easy process, 90% of motors you can put in a car will not be plug & play with the existing harness. If for some odd reason, you have a pre-96 car with an OBD2a/b harness in it, GET A NEW HARNESS BEFORE SWAPPING THE MOTOR.

If your motor is running like crap, chances are it's either running rich as hell, or way too lean, hope for rich. But do not fear, there is a fix that should cost no more than $200 (USD), buy an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator or chip and tune your ECU.

"I bought a shell/car with <whatever non-stock motor> and it won't start, HELP!!!" Check your battery, chances are, it's not hooked up. Yes, sometimes it's that dumb of an issue. Other than that, make sure you didn't leave anything unplugged. If it's still not running, leave a reply here, we'll see if we can't help you out.

"Will trans A fit on motor B?" 90% of the time, if the motor is a B-series (B16, B18, B20) it will fit on any trans that was found on a B-series. I.e. A trans off of a B16 will fit on a B20 and vise versa. Same thing with F-series and J-series and ect.

"Can ECU A work with motor B?" As I was informed not long ago myself, any ECU (OBD0, OBD1, OBD2a/b) will work for any motor from the same series. I.e. An ECU for a B18 will work for a B20 and ect. Just make sure that if your motor has Vtec, that your ECU also supports Vtec. Look here for information on identifying ECUs.

If you have any more questions or issues, feel free to leave a comment.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Power loss troubleshooting.

This is in no real order or complete:

Check oil. Replace if needed.

Check your fuel. Fuel can go bad.

Check air filter. Replace or clean as needed.

Look for a vacuum leak. Take a can of brakleen or carb/throttle body cleaner and spray it around all of your vacuum fittings. If the car bogs, dies, or almost dies, you found your leak. Now fix it. Brakleen and carb cleaner is/can be flammable, please use caution, best judgement, and take the proper safety steps to prevent you from burning your car to the ground. And avoid spraying it on/around things that can spark or gets really hot, like your alt. and exhaust.

Check for faulty/malfunctioning IAC and/or FIV. If damaged or otherwise malfunctioning, replace or rebuild.

Check timing on both cams and crank. If your off by even one tooth, it can and will rob power. There may also be an underlining issue, investigate it.

Check your power system (battery, alt., ect.) and your ignition system (dizzy, spark plugs, wires, ect.).

Check fuel pressure.

Check fuel air ratio. There is a number of methods to do this without the use of a wideband, just google around. Try this last -> Adjust if need be (there is a screw top middle-ish of most TBs).

Check crank driven accessories (PS, A/C, ect.). Replace, rebuild, remove as needed.

Check the rest of the fuel system (injectors, fuel rail, fuel lines, fuel filter, ect.). Replace as needed.

CHECK YOUR TRANS FLUID. This is something that so many people over look. Just like your engine, the oil inside your trans DOES need to be changed. Use either Honda MTF or a syncromesh MTF. DO NOT use ATF or gear oil unless your owners manual states other wise. You can use 10w-30 in most Honda trans', but it's not suggested.
 
#19 ·
This thread really isn't going to do much help. I've noticed there are pretty much two kinds of people on this site. The first kind are the ones who apparently don't know how to use Google. They ask questions that have been answered a million times and they are never going to see this thread because they don't search. The second kind are people who actually do their own legwork. They may ask questions from time to time but, for the most part, these questions end up in their build logs or are just theoretical/debate questions on which parts are better. Most technical info and fixes/problems have been covered on this site since it has been around so long.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Compression testing.

This is just a quick run down, I'll link a proper write up later if I can find one.

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/vitamin_d/296-compression-testing-101-faq-how.html - Thanks to @labelhunter for finding this for me!

Why would you need to do a compression test?

A compression test can tell you quite a few things, but the number one thing most people use the test for, is checking to see if their piston rings are shot or not.

How can I tell if I need a compression test?

You may need a compression test if you notice that you are burning oil, or you keep burning through PCVs, or if you have a loss of power that other, simpler test, have ruled out. (Please refer to this for a fast rundown for power loss trouble shooting.)

Pre-test:

In order to do a compression test you need a few things:

Compression test gauge - This can be obtained from many auto parts stores and can even be rented from some of them.

A quart of oil - Not required, but will let you do "wet" test (just add a small amount of oil in the cylinder, enough to just barely cover the top of the piston head).

A wrench and a properly sized socket for your spark plugs

A friend - Not required, but helpful.

The testing:

The testing itself is rather straight forward, just put the car in park (for A/T) or neutral (A/T and/or M/T [make sure the handbrake is engaged!]), remove ALL of the spark plugs and attach the compression gauge in accordance with the instructions of the gauge in question.

Once you have everything hooked up, "bump" the starter (a period of cranking the car for 3~5 seconds should be all that's needed) and hold the throttle open, for electric, or "fly by wire", throttles you'll have to find some way of opening the throttle (this will allow you to get a higher reading since the motor will be able to pull in air). - Thanks to @drmix for reminding me about holding the throttle open!

Record the readings for that cylinder and move to the next one. You're looking for consistent numbers in all cylinders above all else for the time being.

If all the number are with in +/- 50 for each other, chances are, you're good. But double check the numbers you have with what is known to be good readings for your motor.

Please note that too high of compression can be just as bad as too low of compression for things such as MPG/KPL (or w/e), seals, gaskets, and/or your piston rings. Do take care while preforming the test, you may get sprayed in the eye with fluids, SO WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES!!!
 
#27 ·
What to do first?

I see a lot of people asking "Should I make it look good first, or should I make it run good first?" when they get their new/used teg, seems to be the most common question at least.

Well, here is what I have to ask you:

  1. What is the car going to be used for?
  2. What is your budget like?
  3. What is your experience level working on cars?
  4. What is the current running condition of the car?

Once you have all those figured out, we can start.

For the most part, it's rather universal that you do things in order of:

  1. Engine/Brakes - Especially if the car is running rough, going to be a DD, or track car.
  2. Suspension - Let's face it, most of our cars are older than a lot of us, the suspension could use some love.
  3. Body/looks - Unless there is rust, take care of rust A.S.A.P.

So for the most part, don't even worry about how it looks other than rust till you have your motor, brake, and suspension mods in place. There is a reason behind this, it is inevitable that you will bang/dent/scratch/ect. the car in some way while installing something. Brakes being the worst do to the fact that brake fluid that can, and will, eat your paint.

There is a bit more to it as well. In most cases, getting the car running/driving to your liking, is going to be the most expensive stage of working on your car.

And if you're going for that "sleeper vibe" kinda thing, it will be more easily pulled off with a car that looks like a rolling turd lol.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Check for CELs (check engine lights), check your Vtec fuse(s), check the solenoid itself (could be sticking), and lastly, check your cams. Oh, and make sure your getting the RPMs up to the Vtec activation RPM, about 4k RPM iirc.

If you still can't find the issue, start a new thread and we'll see what we can do from there.

Edit: Also, does your tach loose it's ****ing mind after a set RPM? If so, your dizzy is dieing and needs to be replaced or rebuilt.
 
#35 · (Edited)
How to ask for help.

Over a short time I have noticed a lot of new members coming on the site and asking for help with their cars, this is perfectly fine and one of the reasons this site even exist. However, these new members are generally extremely vague on the issue that they're having and only think of offering details on the car in question after being asked for. So to streamline the process, please use the following format when asking for help.

Model: 88~15 ect.
Submodel: RS/LS/GS/GSR/ITR/SE/ect.
Current motor: B18A1/B20Z2/B20B4/K-swap/ect.
Miles on motor/body: 1000(m)/300000(b) ect.
Current mods: CAI, boosted/blown, 750cc injectors, ect.
Issue: "Motor can't make boost" or "A funny smell in the exhaust" and ect.
Comments: "I have had to fix this, this, and this, to find this issue."

Just copy, paste, and fill in the below in a new thread:

[b]Model:[/b]
[b]Submodel:[/b]
[b]Current Motor:[/b]
[b]Miles on motor(M)/body(B):[/b]
[b]Current mods:[/b]
[b]Issue:[/b]
[b]Comments:[/b]

Using a format similar to this and starting a new thread will help speed up the process of helping you find out what is wrong with your car and help you get it fixed faster.
 
#36 ·
What to do if you breakdown.

Now, I should hope everyone knows the basics, like turning on your warning/hazard lights, but this is going to be more for helping us get you up and running again faster and more smoothly, much like "How to ask for help".

Let's start off by making sure you have something you can always take notes with, like good old fashion pen and paper, that will ALWAYS be in the car.

Now for what can help us get you running again!

When you breakdown, take as detailed notes as you can. Things like the speed you were going (and don't try to lie about this please, we don't care and can't write you a ticket or something anyway), any smells or sounds or anything else you noticed like that before and after you broke down. Extra info that can help us is stuff like the last time you changed your oil, coolant, t-belt, the kind of oil you run (not the brand, that info is useless 90% of the time). Though a lot of people do write this info down or have it stamped some where, so it may not be necessary to add this info to your "breakdown notes". Take some pictures or video if you can as well, you have no idea how much this can help us.

If your motor just dies, PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO RESTART YOUR CAR! Unless you feel confident enough that you won't ruin your motor, it's always best to have the car towed back to your house or a mechanic or something of that nature.

If there is a strong smell of gas, GET THE **** AWAY FROM THE CAR!!! Again, this should be common knowledge, but overkill is underrated.

If anyone else would like me to add something to this post, do let me know.
 
#38 · (Edited)
Clutch replacement extras, and what to do in the event of a clutch failure.

Been awhile so I'm a bit rusty at this, so hang in there with me...

As the things in the title kinda go hand-in-hand, I decided to lump into one post. We'll start with what to do/check in case of some sort of clutch failure, starting with the most common, loss of clutch (i.e. it goes to the floor but little to nothing happens as it should).

First off, what to do at the time of the failure:

Learn how to 'speed shift', and fast. Shifting without using the clutch can be VERY bad for your poor trans, but when you have no clutch to use, it's a must.

The main goal that you should keep in mind is to never stop till you're someplace you can leave the car. Good places would be gas/petrol stations that you know is in a well enough place the car won't get missed with, a friends house, a mechanics shop, or your driveway (if you're really good at planing your route, this is the best place, but **** happens).

Take some notes, as mentioned in an earlier post, this will help us out a lot when it comes to getting you back on the road with a working clutch.

Note: If you have a cable clutch, it is possible for the broken cable to take out some if not all of your belts. So plan for the worst, like no power steering, no power gen (from the alt.), ect.

What to do after you get it home:

Let the damn thing cool before you start jacking it up or something, it would also be a great idea to put a catch pan or some cardboard under the car to catch any clutch fluid or ect. that may be leaking out at this point.

After the car has cooled, you can start figuring out what done ****ed up and kicked the bucket.

Start by looking at your catch pan/cardboard/ect. for fluids, if there are any found, chances are it's a hydraulic system failure. This is generally good news as it's a fast decently cheap fix.

Next you'll want some gloves, clutch fluid is DOT 3/4/5 brake fluid, and it's a righteous pain in the ass to wash off after it's soaked into your skin, and in the state of California, it causes cancer.

After you find your anti-cancer gloves and put them on, start running your fingers around the fitting on the master cylinder (it's attached to the firewall next to the brake booster [the big round black thing with a big hose running into it] on the driver side). You're looking for any kind of fluid to tell you that something is leaking, if none is found, try to trace the metal tube all the way to the slave cylinder, you're looking for cracks/splits/ ect. at this point. When you get to the slave cylinder, it's more of the same as with the master cylinder, check the fittings for leaks.

If still no leaks are found, grab that thing the slave cylinder is hooked up to (should be a bit of metal sticking out of your trans [it should also have a rubber boot or something, but those ****ers get misplaced easily...]) and give it a good shake up and down, side to side. If it shakes a lot, chances are the little ball thing that acts as the pivot point for (We're just going to call it a clutch fork for simplicities sake.) clutch fork is shot, about $10 at your local auto parts store, just a giant pain in the ass to get to. Oh, and if it's not there at all, you have some MAJOR issues... And more than likely a massive bill ahead of you... Sorry for your loss, I heard it was such a great wallet...

If all still seems well, give your trans a good sniff where the clutch fork is, if it smells like something has recently been 'cooked' by a three year old, your clutch is TOAST.

Cable clutch guys: Much the same for you guys as hydro guys, but you'll be looking for the end of the cable attached to the side of the trans at the front, if it's not there at all, it broke, replace it, sorry for your loss...

If all still seems well, seek professional help, I'm sorry for your loss...

What to check for after getting the old clutch out:

While you have it out, you may as well play with your shaft a bit. Not that one you sick ****, the one sticking out of the trans... Just try to wiggle it with all your might (get your mind out of the gutter...), if it moves even a LITTLE, chances are your bearings are shot, I'm sorry for your loss...

Now find your ball, it's under the clutch fork (btw, the clutch fork really should have a 'throwout bearing' on it, if it doesn't, there is something MASSIVELY wrong and you should start looking for bits of metal everywhere...), you're mostly looking to see if the fork still snaps on nice and tight and isn't a funny shape yet. Oh, and glob some anti-seize on it while you're there.

Inspect the fork. Now, it's HIGHLY unlikely that there is anything wrong with the fork, those damn things normally out live the rest of the car, but look for cracks, grinding marks, ect. anyway, overkill is underrated after all.

As always, if you need a bit more info, or you think I missed something, let me know!
 
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