b18b1 tips

[reys14]

okay guys, heres my situation

i have a 98' rs coupe with a b18b1 and tranny.
as of right now i am stuck and im going between ideas back and forth. boost or n/a setup. now the thing is, is that i had this car on boost before and i blew the rings on 2 cylinders so im probably going to have to bore and hone the block to a 81.5mm. i have the turbo kit and its in perfect shape. im broke right now and this is my DAILY DRIVER, so now im getting rides everywhere which sucks. im still looking for a job but here is what im thinking:
either of the 2 options:
sell the boost kit with front mount, wastegate, bov, and greddy boost controller. and go all motor with 10:1 pistons 81.5mm bore, new rods, polished crank, and keep the stock head until i can get a vtec head. i have skunk2 intake manifold and ctr throttle body already. with a rebuild kit( just bearings, seals, gaskets , and water pump)
OR
buy 9:1 piston and rods, polished crank and keep the boost and just run boost again on the stock head. with a new rebuild kit(just seals, bearings, and gaskets, waterpump.)
looking for reliable daily. or would it be better to just buy a gsr and swap it in my integra rs. if i go all motor i want 170-180whp. (i will cam it later on when i get money) if i go back on boost im going to want the same power i made before,300whp but thats not reliable.

please and thanks, i need some advice.

[Death-the-Kid]

the rebuild option with boost will be better

[reys14]

Originally Posted by Death-the-Kid

the rebuild option with boost will be better

how come? im broke so the money option would be better wouldnt it on the all motor?

[Death-the-Kid]

Originally Posted by reys14

how come? im broke so the money option would be better wouldnt it on the all motor?

not really. especially if you run low boost. an all out n/a build is not more reliable than a low hp turbo build. it'll take less work to keep your current setup. You're going to have to do the same thing to both motor setups, one will just be faster than the other. Also why do you need a polished crank? honestly with some head studs bearings and pistons your turbo setup will be plenty reliable. N/A route will be more expensive with less gains...you're going to do all of the work and not even be able to run the proper head. with boost you can keep it how it is but reinforced. if you're worried about reliability, then turn the boost down. either way you'll be faster than n/a. with ls/turbo the car wills till behave like stock out of boost which helps with fuel economy

[hungry718]

It's hard to want to keep cost low, be reliable, and go fast all at the same time. You can keep cost low and be fast, but in the end that wont be reliable. The cheapest and most reliable is stock, but thats not fast at all lol. So this is really tough.

To be honest I would go NA. I would increase the displacement as far as I could to add low end, and as far as pistons, I recommend b16's. They are cheap, oem, and topped with a p72 head will give u a cr of 11:1 and will cover all 3 basis of low cost, fast, and reliable.

Along with the mani and TB u already have, all u would need a good header and exhaust. Of course ther is much more involved, like a upgraded valve train and cams, but that is far from low cost lol.

I'm running a simple i/h/e with b16 piston in a gsr and I have 180 to wheels. This month I'll be dropping in a skunk2 mani and TB at 69mm so I might go up another 5hp. My car is quick, super reliable, good on gas, and hasnt cost me any more than a turbo build so far, and comes with none of the headaches and worries I have seen all of my friends go thru that went boost.

[reys14]

Originally Posted by hungry718

It's hard to want to keep cost low, be reliable, and go fast all at the same time. You can keep cost low and be fast, but in the end that wont be reliable. The cheapest and most reliable is stock, but thats not fast at all lol. So this is really tough.

To be honest I would go NA. I would increase the displacement as far as I could to add low end, and as far as pistons, I recommend b16's. They are cheap, oem, and topped with a p72 head will give u a cr of 11:1 and will cover all 3 basis of low cost, fast, and reliable.

Along with the mani and TB u already have, all u would need a good header and exhaust. Of course ther is much more involved, like a upgraded valve train and cams, but that is far from low cost lol.

I'm running a simple i/h/e with b16 piston in a gsr and I have 180 to wheels. This month I'll be dropping in a skunk2 mani and TB at 69mm so I might go up another 5hp. My car is quick, super reliable, good on gas, and hasnt cost me any more than a turbo build so far, and comes with none of the headaches and worries I have seen all of my friends go thru that went boost.

thanks man i appriciate your post. i like your idea. im worried about running boost after boring out the block a bit, it wont be held right at least in my eyes, keeps me worried...iwould like to have 170 to the wheels if all motor. that moves pretty quick. im not looking for an all out super car. thats for my dream supra :] but i like honda all motor and people are saying that i can sell my turbo kit, which is ac/ ps compatible, t3/t4 with turbo mani, waste gate, bov, and greedy electronic boost controller and front mount and piping for about a grand, which would get me started on the build with all i would need is the rebuild kit with a bore hone and headers. and pistons.
would i need rods? and would i need a new oil pump?

[hungry718]

No problem bro. Im not sure how much all that stuff goes for, as I never got involved with turbo stuff personally, just from what I have read and close friends testimonials.
But a grand is strong starting point tho. U wont need to change the rods, just the pistons. And if u are going to do a rebuild of the engine then u might as well replace the water and oil pump. It would be silly not while the engine is out and apart and being rebuilt.
The most important aspect of any build is flow. So with that I would invest the money in a manifold, header, cat, and exhaust. If u go with my suggestion of b16 pistons then that will only cost u 200 bucks.
The biggest thing u will need, and most expensive, will be getting ur hands on a vtec head.

[dark_reverie]

a simple lsvtec build with used but good condition parts (stock ls block and gsr/b16 head) would cost maybe $1000 for everything you need...assuming you dont want to have a spare motor, you can take out the cost of another ls block

[Death-the-Kid]

either way will cost about the same...at the end of the day it really depends on the tune and quality parts of how reliable the build is. If you want a decent hp turbo car with great mpg and reliability get a good tuner. Took my almost 5 years to blow my 17 year old turbo up at max boost. same goes with n/a. just because it's n/a doesn't make it magically more reliable.

[leclue19]

daily driving, like going to work, school, back and forth during traffic ect = NA

sure many boosted guys can claim they "daily drive it" but the probably only drive it a few days out of the week with careful discression.

see this thread.
B20b dyno results - budget build
will keep up with beat most B18c1, rape b16's and have good amount of torque for daily driving.

Cheers

[Death-the-Kid]

Originally Posted by leclue19

daily driving, like going to work, school, back and forth during traffic ect = NA

sure many boosted guys can claim they "daily drive it" but the probably only drive it a few days out of the week with careful discression.

see this thread.
B20b dyno results - budget build
will keep up with beat most B18c1, rape b16's and have good amount of torque for daily driving.

Cheers

depends on the setup and current power level. kind of a broad statement there. 220-250whp boosted application on a good tune won't be anything to worry about. if you're beating the hell out of either setup it's kind of up in the air. daily driven or not. it's not like you're always in boost either.

[reys14]

so with a new bore and honing. i can use oversized b16a pistons on ls rods? if thats the case, thats better for me because i wont need to spend any money on rods. and would i need any kind of kit to mix and match the rods and pistons?
btw i already have a full hks exhaust except for headers. i have a skunk 2 intake manifold and a ctr throttle body. injectors and a fuel pump.

[hungry718]

Originally Posted by reys14

so with a new bore and honing. i can use oversized b16a pistons on ls rods? if thats the case, thats better for me because i wont need to spend any money on rods. and would i need any kind of kit to mix and match the rods and pistons?
btw i already have a full hks exhaust except for headers. i have a skunk 2 intake manifold and a ctr throttle body. injectors and a fuel pump.

Not that I'm aware of. I believe they just bolt right up, seeing how I have GSR rods they did, but I don't know if the rods on a LS and GSR are the same, but check into it first.

And just like stated above me, it's all about the quality of the parts being put on the motor, and of course the tune.

It seems to me that you are already in a very good position to make good power on a NA setup. Just locate a vtec head, a good header, and your good to go.