Looking to rebuild JDM ITR motor looking for 230 HP need advice - Page 3 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

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Old 02-08-2012, 10:22 AM   #29 (permalink)
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leclue19 - Jesse's car is making some nice power, should we expect some track results from the car anytime soon?

I would also be interested in the difference (lose in power) between his normal intake setup & the velocity stack stickin out the engine bay like in the pics...
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Old 02-08-2012, 11:21 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I say just go for it! The worst that could happen is you won't make quite the power you wanted but you'll still have a fun dd!

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Old 02-08-2012, 01:29 PM   #31 (permalink)
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yes the car will get some track times to back up the extra power it made.

best time so far was 12.6 with 22" slicks stock shocks ebay coilovers
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:22 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I have a rebuilt GSR with just b16 piston and a few simple bolt ons and I made 180 to the wheels. NA and boost cost about the same in the end. Its all about selecting the right parts to work together and get the best results.

I dont see why 230whp is not a doable goal for an ITR motor. If anything he will come out saving some money cuz the stronger valvetrain that comes stock.. High comp, free flowing and fast reving parts are what you need.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:54 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Good job man! 240whp is a big milestone. Any $ amounts and maybe a breakdown of your costs? Most people claiming this would cost 7 grand are over-estimating by a long shot.


EDIT: Also, why did you go with an intake manifold over ITBs? You could probably squeeze some more ponies out of ITBS? I'm not sure if your build calls for air velocity or air volume, but I always assumed ITBs to be the N/A intake method of choice
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:42 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I would love to see a 2.5liter gsr..I never have heard of someone doing this and I don't believe it till I see it.not with a b series anyways.
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:04 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hungry718 View Post
I have a rebuilt GSR with just b16 piston and a few simple bolt ons and I made 180 to the wheels. NA and boost cost about the same in the end. Its all about selecting the right parts to work together and get the best results.

I dont see why 230whp is not a doable goal for an ITR motor. If anything he will come out saving some money cuz the stronger valvetrain that comes stock.. High comp, free flowing and fast reving parts are what you need.
not really, depends on the power level. at low power levels maybe. Also a healthy stock motor and the same money invested in boost will equate to 270whp+on low low low boost....and boost = tq. Your wheel tq in a similarly priced boosted application will probably match the whp on an n/a application. it takes a lot of money/time to get over 210whp out of a b-series all motor. now 235whp is definitely pricey if going all motor. it's more than just getting the right parts.

Stock High compression is irrelevant for a 235whp all motor build since you will need to replace key bottom end components anyways...pistons for example. fast revving has more to do with the close ratio tranny and flywheel, than the motor itself. put an ls tranny on it and nothing is fast revving :-P
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:31 AM   #36 (permalink)
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some of you guys gave good points but the "thought" seems some what scattered.


I'll try to answer the questions.

1) VS does make more power... i don't care if you have a stock D series or modded B series. Every hp helps it's not spendy as other cone filters. I don't use it on the streets, only dyno session & at the track.

2) ITB can make great power BUT it's all about the collective built/combination of parts.
You simply can't say that ITB on any setup will make more power. Manytime mild setups like this one would probably make LESS overall powerband in return only yield 1-2whp at the very last 300-400rpms. So it's not worth it. Also keep i mind, they are not all that practical for the cars that drive to and from the drag strip. You can do it with some sort of filter cover over them. Tuning can be tricky (depending on the entire setup).

ITB are one of the last mods I would do if I was trying to squeeze every hp out of the engine. Quality ITB are not cheap.... used are $1200, new are +$1400.
For that money, more gains would be provided by custom sheet metal IM, CNC head, bad ass cams, stroker crank, custom header.

ITB are nice but not a "game-changer" for most setups. They just give you baller status points. jk.

3) IMHO WHP doesn't always mean fast.
You can invest $6k into a NA 250whp setup and run 11's, but spend $6K and also run 11's on a 400whp turbo setup. There's more to be said about it but i encourage you guys look into it some more, don't discount the learning curve of asking questions in your own words so you an a response that clicks with you.

4) honestly this setup could easily cost +5K, but it all depends on if your using new or used parts, and if your able to get some parts at dealer prices, if your able to get a great tuner, ect.

Think about this.
Kingmotorsports longblock CREATE STREET motor 215whp 145tq
King Motorsports Unlimited, Inc. - King Motorsports Engine Build Prices & Process
B Series 1.8 Liter
Bore: 81.5mm
Stroke: 87.2mm
Octane: 93
Head Mods: King Motorsports Engine Build w/Competition
Head Pkg.; Degreed Cams
Cams: Skunk2 Pro 1's
Pistons: Wiseco
Compression: 13:1
Throttle Body: 68mm
Intake: Skunk2 Pro Series
Injector Size: 310
Tuning Solution: Hondata S300, Tuned on King's Dynojet
Header: Mugen 4-2-1 Gymkahna

$3500.00 labor only.... parts extra.

If i was to rebuild P.R.E LSV.. it would probably be:
$50 - LS block
$140 - LS bored to 82mm - cleaned, decked
$120 - LS 89mm micropolished crank
$80 - complete ACL race bearings (mains & rods)
$30 - ARP rod bolts
$20 - honing rods
$100 - ARP head studs
$60 - OEM head gasket
$180 - 82mm itr replica pistons + rings
$15 - oil pan gasket
$15 - rear main seal
$12 - front crank seal
$30 - eagle IM gasket
$270 - performance x IM
$100 - 70mm tb
$10 - OEM IM gasket
$40 - dms 450cc injectors
$70 - walbro intake fuel pump
$350-450 used pro2 cams
$160 rocket valvesprings
$40 02-06 type s forged retainers
$20 - viton valve seals
$300 - B vtec head (gsr or b16)
$500-900 ported or cnc head
$100 - cam gears
$40 - timing belt
$35 - water pump


i added a ton of stuff in there that most people wouldn't consider as part of the "engine build"...
$2500-2800 max

the key is the cam degreeing, tuning & engine asseymbly.
You can just copy the list but it doesn't mean the motor will run the same way.

does that make sense guys?
I don't know everything but i surround myself by people who know more than I do.
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