I'd like to make this a write up for the gen 2 section. I am doin a battery relocation on my 93 ls hatch. I've got the battery and the sealed battery box with vent tube and I've got a steel plate on order so that I can mount the box and battery hold down bolts to where ever I need them so I'm placing the battery behind the passenger backseat. I've also got 2 gauge power wire aswell both power and ground cables with battery terminals.
So now that leaves me with needing to buy 2 power distribution blocks one for one to split off for subwoofer and other for chassis power which then runs to another distribution block in the engine bay and then connect the factory power cable to the distribution block. I'm lookin into getting a circuit breaker rated for 100 amps or should I go 120 amps? The amplifier power cable will not be on the circuit breaker as it is protected by 2 fuses. 1 on cable, one on amp. As for the distribution blocks, will marine 2 post distribution blocks work? They have protective covers for the wire and are rated at 48dcv max and 600 amp max 3/8 posts.
I will post more as I go and acquire the rest of the items needed and will provide pics aswell as I move along the process. It may take a Lil while as I'm not making as much money at this moment but I will try to keep this updated as I'm hoping to have this done on tax return or sooner. Feel free to add in anything I'm forgetting or I'll draw up a diagram later on if need be. Thank u
The box will sit on top of and be bolted to the steel plate using the supplied studs with the box which also serve as the battery tiedown bolts aswell. The steel plate in turn will be bolted to the car and will allow for use and removal of spare tire without removal of the plate.
OK so I got the steel plate I'll do pics tomorrow when I clean out the back to mark all my drill holes and to find out where exactly I can drill on the chassis.
So I've decided to add a capacitor to my stereo as I'm doin my battery relocation. It's gonna be a tight install as everything will be in that gap between battery box and sub box.
How close is your fuse to the battery? When I had my amp in the back along with the battery I had a separate fuse for the battery then a separate fuse for the amp.
You want the fuse to be as close to the battery as possible. That way if anything happens to the battery cable the power will stop right at its source. I have mine maybe 6 inches away from the battery and it is inside the battery box.
Dont forget about putting in grommets on the box where you have cables running in and out.
My battery box came with grommets and I'm not using a fuse for the battery I'm using a circuit breaker instead. ill have the fuse on the amp though. Both the fuse and circuit breaker will be less than a foot from the battery.
It's slow progress since I'm gonna be moving, but I will have it ready by summer.
I will post up a more detailed wiring diagram as I move along so as to help others that may be wanting to do this aswell.
OK so I'm moved but hours are still down at work so we will see how long this takes. On the bright side once I get my tax return back I am buying new skunk2 upper control arms with ball joints and a energy suspension polturethane bushing master kit.
I didn't have it hooked up yet. I honestly forgot it was in the hatch, but it's all good my carpet was in bad shape anyways. I did get a nice sore hand tho from dealing with acid bare handed. I gutted the back of its carpet since it's soaked and I may just say screw it and get a agm type battery instead.
Well the back location will be put on back burner as I've lost my job, but in the meantime I've got a box of koni yellows and I'm waiting on my tein h tech springs to arrive.
Still no progress as I'm job searching, but once I'm stable I'll be restarting my work to get the back done. Also I'm needing the shift linkage pice that has the u joint on the end since it snapped off of my shifter. They are not easy to find.
So an update. The shifter has been fixed but more importantly I now have a job. So once I start getting paid I'll be able to restart my work on the relocation of the battery. The other problem is how to attach the steel plate in the back of the car. I'm not too sure if it'd be a good idea to bolt it down to the chassis or if I should weld it.
So im still doin the relocation but still it on the back burner as I'm redrawing the plans for it. In the meantime I have a new trubendz 2.25" tubing kit and magnaflow 11235 muffler. I'm gonna weld the battery plate in the back of the car. I understand it is permanent but I'm ok with that. I will be doin some modifications although with the battery plate setup so as to allow for the spare tire.
So I haven't forgotten about this just have other things going on. I've decided to relocate the underhood fuse box aswell. So I will need to draw up the plans and decide how I'm going to go about that aswell. The list just keeps getting longer and longer.
So just bought my new battery for the relocation today and I ordered a 200 amp circuit breaker plus 2 distribution boxes. I'm waiting for the breaker and boxes to show up so that I use the correct terminals.
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