1992 Acura Integra NO SPARK!

[BradEby]

Hey there!
I'm really hoping that I can find some help here.
I just bought a 1992 Acura Integra, 1.8L 4cyl, 5 speed manual.
I'm no mechanic, I know a couple basics and a few internal things about vehicle, but with it being Hondas DOHC engine, I'm fairly confused.

While I was driving it home 2 nights ago, the car just died, all the dash lights came on, and I was unable to start it for about 30 minutes. I then turned it over, and it fired up just fine. I drove it about 50km to my parents house and left it over night.
Yesterday, I drove the car around with no issues until halfway through the day when I stopped at a friends place to say bye as I was going to leave town and go home. I left the car idling for about 5 minutes, came outside, and it was dead, wouldn't start, and I'm now stuck away from home and I work in 2 days...

There is power to the ignitor coil, but no spark to the plugs...

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a million!
Brad.

[1point8]

If you're confident it's not making it out of the distributor take a look at the underside of cap and rotor for wear. It can also be difficult to check for spark at the plug wire make sure you're shorting it out correctly with a screwdriver to ground or with the plug in the wire then to ground. Always attempt a good ground doing this as you can kill your coil if not done right. I recommend going to the parts store and buying a cheap tester for this, it hooks to the plug wire and either lights a bulb or shows a spark.

There are several threads here for this problem also.

Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

Team Integra is a forum dedicated to Acura Integra enthusiasts. Join our forums to meet other integra owners and see pictures of their modified Acuras. - Search Results for no spark

You may also have to check for fuel pressure if you find you're getting spark. * Add > I should also say make sure you're getting the initial whirl sound from the fuel pump when you turn the key on. If you can't hear it inside the car put your ear to the open gas filler hole and then have someone turn the key to on. Do this after the car has been sitting for about an hour*

IMHO if you get pressed for time due to work just call one of those mobile mechanics out he/she will have everything that's needed and it shouldn't take long to find what's up.

[BradEby]

Well so far I have replaced the Ignitor coil, module, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, checked the ECU for shorts, melts, corrosion, etc. Everything seems to be in working condition, I just can't figure it out for the life of me... There's fuel in the lines and filter. Fuel pump is engaging when key is 'ON'. The only thing I havent replaced due to the extensive cost, is the distributor itself.

[1point8]

So the engines not cranking when you turn the key, it's silent?



I have to head out to work but I still suggest getting a cheap spark tester. If it cranks check the distributor connections and pins. It could also be a sensor in the dist housing such as the CYP cylinder position sensor. You sometimes get an engine light for this.

Here is a drawing I did for someone although it may not be conclusive.



You also have a crank position sensor (2, 6) and and top dead center sensor (3, 7) in there. The resistance and continuity table is the same for each set in the chart I believe.

It sounds like you've declared war on your car by replacing all those parts without proper testing. it would be way cheaper to call someone out. Thoes guys are usually top line troubleshooters and can be surprisingly cheap.

[MurderedDA]

also check make sure your timing belt is tight. i once replaced a distributor on another car of mine, AND THEN realized that the timing belt came loose. fail.

[Craig92DA9]

The way you describe the car dieing while running, not restarting, and then it does restart eventually sometimes makes me want to see fuel pressure. It really sounds like a main realy(computer/fuel system, up under the dash by the column) problem to me. With a bad main relay you won't get spak or fuel pressure and the problems with those are usually intermitent in the beginning. Sometimes tapping on the relay will get it to start if thats the problem.

Also I agree about only using an actual spark tester to check for spark.

[BradEby]

Hmm, well I know the problem is that I am not getting spark to the plugs. There is power in the coil, but it isn't making it further than there. Almost 100% sure it has nothing to do with the fuel, as there is gas in the filter.
At first, there was an intermittent spark to the plug, now there's none.
I bought a used distributor base, and am going to be replacing it with the current one in a few hours, as the current one looks as though a few of the wires have been overheated and are quite brittle.
Could the timing belt cause me to not have spark at the plugs, but power in the coil?

Thank you to you all so far for the assistance.

[BradEby]

Sorry for the double post, but the engine is turning over, there is just no spark, so in turn, wont start.

[MurderedDA]

if it sounds like it normally does when it turns over, its probably not the belt. the problem will probably be your distributor. if not, i'm stumped if it is the spark.

[BradEby]

Okay, well I will update you guys in a few hourss after I replace it and find out if its the problem or not. Thanks a lot guys!

[20LS01]

if you have spark at the coil, but not at the plugs, then its something after it:

cap, rotor, spark plug wires and or spark plugs.

replace with OEM parts, dont use anything else.


most of the time, the problem is the coil.

[BradEby]

replaced all of those with OEM parts, NGK plugs and wires.

[BradEby]

Uploaded a couple pictures to an album.

[Killswitch]

"Eric the car guy" does a lot of great stuff on youtube. Check out his channel.
Just for s&g, see if these help:

You Tube

You Tube

No Spark Diagnosis (Honda) - YouTube

No Spark Diagnosis (Honda) - YouTube