Steering Wheel vibrates/shakes @ stops - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

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Old 01-21-2003, 11:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Getting seriously frusturated. 90 LS, auto tranny. 206000 miles on it. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

Short Version:
After the car is warmed up, I get a pretty severe shake in the wheel (and sometimes other parts--dash, body, etc) when I am at a stop. It runs very rough when stopped, and sometimes sounds/feels like it's missing. only happens when the car is in gear--shifting to start or neutral causes the shake to drastically reduce or disappear. Problem disipates when I take my foot off the brake, disappears when I hit the gas. New timing belt, water pump, plugs, wires, distrubuter (rebuilt), cap, rotor, coil and 02 sensor hasn't helped. Mechanic says the motor mounts don't need replaced and aren't to blame.

Tranny, EGR valve possible? (online searches suggested both of these for similar problems) Any other thoughts or suggestions?

Long Version:
About 3 months ago I noticed that car seemed to idle a little bit rough while in gear at stops. I also notice that my gas mileage was starting to go downhill. I knew that I was due for a timing belt and figured that was the problem. Saved up the cash (during this time, the problem got worse) and got the timing belt and water pump replaced, along w/ new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, just before Thanksgiving.

Problem was still there after I got the above work done; figured I'd drive it a bit and the belt just needed broken in.

Driving it didn't help; the problem got worse. Car started missing and sputtering while at stops. During a few of these sputters, the Check Engine light came on. Back to the garage.

Mechanic stopped listening after he heard "rough idle", called me and said the car was fine--gave me the "You know it's got over 200k on it" speech. Instead of killing him, I re-explained the problem, took the car out for a drive to warm it up, came back to the garage to demo the problem. In addition to everything else, a knocking sound started coming from the distrubter cap at this point.

Pulled off the (3 week old) cap, saw a lot of dust inside it. Also noticed that the rotor (and shaft that drives it) were really loose--so much so that the rotor was bouncing off the cap. He told me I needed a new distributor and to bring it back the next day.

Drive to the shop the next day--car dies at a stop sign 30 feet from the garage and won't start. Push the car to the garage. Mechanic says he found a rebuilt distributor for me and should have it in by the end of the day.

The end of the day comes, Mechanic calls and says he's got the distributor in. When I pick up the car, we both note that it's still got the vibration, although it's much slighter than it was with the old distributor. He tells me to bring the car back after the holidays and he'll take another look.

I drive the car over the holidays, notice that the shake is getting worse and that it is still missing occasionally. About two weeks after the distributor was put in, the car dies at a stop light and won't start--in front of a car dealership; I'm wondering if I should take this as a sign.

After screaming and cursing, I call AAA, get the car towed back to the garage. The next day Mechanic calls, tells me that the coil was burned, that he had a used one in his shop and that the car was running again. He also told me he put on yet another new cap (three caps in 6 weeks, not bad, eh?).

At this point (6 days later) I'm noticing that the vibration is still getting worse and I'm again noticing that it's missing while I'm stopped. Problem continues to disappear when I hit the gas.

I'm pretty disgusted at this point (w/ both car and Mechanic, although to his credit Mechanic hasn't been charging me much for this work) and am wondering if it's time to put a bullet in my Teg (not something I can really afford to do, but I can't afford to keep dumping money in it either). Again I beg for your thoughts or suggestions--please heal my pain.
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Old 01-22-2003, 12:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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that's a tough question. I'd say stick with it... but those pesy electrical problems.... do yourself a favor, get the helms manual. 60 buck and it might actually save you $$$ if you can isolate and fix the problem. hell at least it could be a last ditch effort before you put her out of her misery.

here is some random thoughts..
now does it run fine while it is cold? I'm thinking fuel injectors at idle especially since you noticed a decrease in gas milage, but the "burned coil" thing is out there too. when was the last time (if ever) you cleaned your fuel injectors? a clogged/dirty injector can squirt the normal amount of fuel but at very poor spray quality. also it could be several things added up. how's the compression?
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Old 01-22-2003, 02:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Geeeeezzz...

Sure sounds like someone replaced the timing belt wrong... causing all the other devices to fail. Noticed you only had a rough idle problem to begin with.. and all hell broke loose after replacing the timing belt correct?

Check to make sure your timing is still good. Perhaps the timing belt was installed a tooth off or so...

Also... Ditch that mechanic... How much has he made off you already???
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Old 01-23-2003, 01:47 AM   #4 (permalink)
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after my timing belt cahnge it was nothing but problems untill i got around to tunning it..
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Old 01-23-2003, 01:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Put a New Fuel Filter ,Clean Injectors, and get your timing tuned. Now if you want the Gen2 Helms Manual email me I will let you down load it from me free I have all the manual
My e-mail is ecardenas71@cox.net
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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no if it only happens when u brake that means u need new brakes and new rotor not a timing belt
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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and take it to a shop to let them check it doesnt cost that much too
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Old 01-23-2003, 07:29 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyotasupra916 on Jan/22/03
no if it only happens when u brake that means u need new brakes and new rotor not a timing belt

------------------------------------------------
Along with the other suggestions.. when was a proper tune-up done.. pcv valve /air filter? Injectors... Just some basic things that might need attention also.
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Old 01-23-2003, 08:44 AM   #9 (permalink)
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vacum leek can cause rough idle and stalling
you could also have a leakdown test done along with the compression test and timeing checks
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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CLICK HERE To download G2 Helms Manual

Hope it works if not help plz

56k Baware
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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hey id be interested in that manual too if i could get it that would be kewl

check everything that has to do with your brakes and steering.
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hey click above
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Cant, the path is set to your file:///C:/MyDocuments/G2Helm.zip

how are we gonna get it... =p
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Old 01-23-2003, 03:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Oh im not good with this could yall tell how to upload it to the web
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