Broken header bolt / stud from the head ! - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

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Old 06-15-2005, 10:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Ok i snapped off a bit of the stud on the bottom left of the head where the header/manifold goes on. It still sticks out about 1". How do i get this thing out and replace it?! Can i put two nuts on there and back out the stud?

Im getting an exhaust leak
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Old 06-15-2005, 11:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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96Ls4dr, you are actually lucky since the stud didn't break off flush with the head. I installed my header recently and when I removed the stock exhaust manifold I had the bottom left stub missing (it was broken off flush with the head) and one stud broke off with about 1/2" of the stud sticking out.

You can just use a pair of Vise Grips (locking pliers -- see picture below) and get a hold of the stud sticking out and unthread it. It should come right out.

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Old 06-15-2005, 11:16 AM   #3 (permalink)
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if vise grips dont work try tacking a nut onto it and back it out with a impact
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Old 06-15-2005, 11:30 AM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks guys. You guys are the best!
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Old 06-15-2005, 06:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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have we been here before?

if the bolt cannot be accessed with a vice grip:


Quote:
Originally Posted by by dwnthehatch July/03
Here is a little write up on how to remove the ever-so-common broken exhaust manifold stud.

***DISCLAIMER***
The work and procedures shown and described in these world-wide web files are intended for use by people having average skill and knowledge of the subjects. Caution: If you are inexperienced in using any of the tools or equipment depicted or any of the procedures described, or are in doubt that the work and procedures shown and described may not be safe in your chosen situation, consult a person skilled in the performance of the work or procedure. Throughout this information there are specific safety recommendations given, please pay careful attention to each of these. The creator of the information in these files disclaim any liability for injury or damage arising out of any failure or omission to perform the work or procedure shown and described. The creator of the information in these files disclaim any liability for injury or damage arising out of any unsuccesful or successful attempt to perform any of the modifications or "DIY" projects and tasks outlined within this thread.


Tools needed:

Safety glasses
Liquid penetrating oil
Center punch
Drill with 1/8" bit
No.1 screw extractor - $2.99 at Sears
Hammer
Vicegrips

Now that that is over with let's get started!

(RED CIRCLED header bolt broke)






1. Remove the exhaust manifold and soak the broken stud with liquid penetrant.

2. Use a center punch and tap a pilot hole in the broken stud.





3. Drill a 1/8" hole in the stud. Take your time and don't push too hard. Be sure to use a liquid penetrant as lubricant so the drill bit will not overheat.



4. Tap in the "screw extractor" or "easy out ( EZ-OUT )" with a hammer. Make sure it is snug.


EZ OUT sets:






Screw Extractors:






Sears Combined Screw Extractor Drill Bit Set:










5. Unscrew the broken stud with a pair of vicegrips attached to the extractor. Use lubricant if needed. Here's a pic of the broken stud removed.


BOING!











Quote:
PROBLEM: the drill bit was VERY difficult to sit in the middle of the broken bolt. i managed to get the screw extractor in, but when i turned it, it just ripped right through the bolt.

oh well....





Quote: dwnthehatch reply

I had the same problem the first time I did it. You need a sharper drill bit. And drill deeper.
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Old 06-16-2005, 10:53 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelDelaney on Jun/15/05
have we been here before?

if the bolt cannot be accessed with a vice grip:

I just wanted to comment on this. I used this exact technique to remove my broken stud (which was broken flush with the head) and it worked PERFECT! And it only cost me $2.99 for the bolt extractor from Sears!!!

Just an FYI. To gain access with a drill I first removed the fans and radiator and then I also shortened a 1/8" drill bit. This saves you the hassle and expense of pulling the head. I did have a 90-degree angle drill attachment on hand, just incase I wasn't able to gain access with the radiator removed.
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Old 07-03-2005, 01:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The only thing missing from that wonderful article is the replacement bolt size and where to find one locally or online.
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Old 07-07-2005, 10:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
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M8/1.25 pitch/30mm length

http://www.mcmaster.com/
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Old 10-23-2005, 08:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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your local acura dealer sales for about 3 bucks
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Old 02-16-2006, 11:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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i broke the same stud about 4 months ago. I installed the new header anyway, and it leaked using the new gastket that came w/ header. So i tried using the old oem gasket and it sealed the leak. So you might want to try that first, if you dont want to fix it.
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Old 03-07-2006, 07:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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just rent a stud removal tool from autozone for free. i just did all of mine last week, worked like a charm!
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Old 06-22-2007, 10:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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is it really that easy to place the bolts
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Old 09-07-2007, 05:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It seems a lot of people have this issue. I am yet another victim.

I removed my heat shield only to find that one bolt had fallen out. When i went to put it back in and tighten the rest of them, one broke off on the far top left. Another broke off next to it on the right.

I did the whole stud removal project.

Removed the radiator fan. Had the drill and drill bit. WD-40 on stand-by.

one bolt was successfully removed. The other.... IS STILL IN THERE! The drill bit went in crooked and the ez out was not going to be able to work.

My advice if drilling.

1)Make a punch in the MIDDLE of the stud
2)Drill extrememly slowly. Let the drill do the work.
3) Do not force!

You'll be just fine. Good Luck to you, as well as any other Teg driver who has had this problem.
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Old 09-07-2007, 09:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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WD-40 is not a penetrating oil its not even a good lubricant. WD-40 stands for Water Displacement formula 40. That's why it works so well with bad distributor caps that get wet, spray the inside and outside of the cap and away you go..

I would suggest before attempting to unscrew a broken bolt that you use a high quality penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench is better than WD-40 but is low cost/performance penetrating oil. What you want is something like Kroil (http://www.kanolabs.com/) or Mouse Milk (http://www.mousemilk.com/index.html)

I've been told by a very good friend of mine who has been a mechanic for 40 years both in the military (wheel and tread mechanic) and as an auto mechanic in northern NY (the rust belt) that Kroil is the way to go.

However just about any aircraft mechanic will tell you Mouse Milk is the way to go with Kroil as a close second for removing broken studs on aircraft engines etc. Bear in mind aircraft engines are all aluminum and have been for 50+ years.
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