Hey, did you get your hatch lock fixed?
I have the same problem on my 99 teg.
I have to turn the key maybe 4 or 5 times to get it to unlock. Apparently the whole locj assembly must be replaced as a unit.
Jim
surprisingly it's a common problem for 99 tegs. it happened to mine about 4 months ago. i did a search and like 8,000 people have the same problem. the only thing i read u could do was to change the trunk lock motor. so i just deal wit it and use the key now.
Thats one thing that i dont like about the 98+ you have to walk around to the back of the car to open the hatch unlike the the 94-96 where you pop it next to the gas tank. I took some getting used to and i still pop my gas door trying to get my hatch open in my 00.
My 2000 JUST started doing this, like a few days ago. I'm wondering if anyone has fixed it, it's a pain in the ass to have to use the key everytime.
I did some looking around and it seems replacing the entire assembly (the motor and related components) is required to fix it. Mine is making a whirring noise when i pull the level instead of working like it should. From what i read, sound like an expensive fix
So i am looking to get this "fixed" on the GSR i just got... and while the "turn the key all the way to the right" indeed does work, i sure would like to have it 100% working (in that when i disarm my alarm i can open my trunk w/o the key)
but damn, the best price i could find to replace the assembly is $170 + shipping... that's pretty steeeeep
mine just broke around the 62,000 mark like a month ago. how many of you that say yours broke have speakers 10" and bigger in your trunk? i bought the car at 50,000 miles last year, put in 2 12's about 6 months ago, and a month ago it stopped working, my guess was the vibrations from the subs and not so much the actual quality of the part itself.
that or i refuse to accept the fact that out of 2 hondas, this would be the first thing that broke on its own.
its probably more or less because of terrible design. i've just learned to live with it. i justify it by thinking that in case thieves break into my car, they'd have one hell of a time removing whatever is in the trunk cause it won't pop open without the key.
MZ, if you can still turn the key to open the hatch, then i think 25 would be the problem. same issue that i had.
you can also verify it by taking out the rear trunk panel, and taking out part number 25..disconnecting it from 14 and the metal arm. then slide the hatch switch and see if the swing arm on 25 moves.
All of my parts broke. The lever (#15) would stick in the open position. I fixed this by grinding down the detent that it was sticking on.
My hatch light switch no longer works. It is part of #14. I also think this is a common problem.
And then #25. It would make noise and try to work, but didn't have enough torque.
So I would have them replace #14 since it will probably also fail and pay for #25 myself which is what I think the problem is.
There is a motor/switch in #14 that could fail and cause problems, but I don't think that is the problem. I don't know exactly what the motor and switch does. If you have the Helms, you can check it out and see exactly what the failure mode would be. I don't have the time right now.
I wonder if they realize what hell you could raise for them if you turned against them MZ. These entire hatch lock mechanisms are obviously pooly designed. My 2000 latch is starting to stick in the open position which is very scary because sometimes i will slam the trunk shut and not realize that it is completely open for anyone to get into. I've also had it not latch and driven away.. that was... interesting. Do you guys think some WD-40 could fix the latch sticking?
Some WD-40 might work. The lever is spring loaded to return to the closed position. There is a little bump in the middle of the travel to slow it down. What happens it the grease gets dirty and then the lever sticks on this little bump. I cleaned mine up, ground off the little bump and greased. This is probably the only permanent fix.
The switch action feels much better without the bump. It doesn't slam back. You really have to try to make it slam. The way my hand works, it returns beautifully. I don't think I can move my hand in such a way as to make it slam. I say slam, but it is not a radical slam by any means.
It is not a very hard fix and it should be quite obvious what the problem is when you have the switch in your hand. My description of the problem may not be perfect because I did this long ago, but you should still be able to clearly see the problem. The hardest part is getting the hatch cover back on.
I just looked at my previous post, and I had things backwards. I corrected that post.
I think the actuator (#25) is the problem. I think that latch assembly (#14) will probably also fail, so since it is more expensive I would have them pay for it which probably won't fix the problem. I would then buy the actuator myself which will fix the problem.
i have some what the same problem on my 01 gsr i can open my hatch with no problem what so ever but when i go to close it the hatch is locked lol so i have to use my key to unlock it which sometimes takes 3 or 4 attempts and then it will finally close. Where do you get the customer relations #? is it in the owners manual
The whole power hatch release is crap. My release lever on the hatch got to where it would stick in the open position. I fixed this by grinding off the detent that slowed the levers return movement. Now the lever works great. Then my hatch light stopped working. The hatch light switch is in the latch assembly which is around $170 from Carland. It also has a motor in it. Then my actuator failed.
I don't like the fact that any new parts I buy are going to be the same crap since Honda has not fixed these parts.
I called Acura customer relations and told them all of this and that this is a common problem and that perhaps they should look into it. The response I got was that we don't care, this is an old model. I then wrote a letter and got no response. I also filled out the survey form that comes after a call to customer relations and explained this situation, and that I had written a letter with no response, and asked if they would respond - no response.
The problem is that there is not enough noise being made about this. Most of the failures are after the warranty, so it is hard for them to see this problem without people directly making them aware.
Here is the U.S. customer relations number: 1 (800) 382-2238.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Team Integra Forums
2.7M posts
141.5K members
Since 2002
The Team Integra community is a forum dedicated to Acura Integra enthusiasts to discuss engine building, suspension, repair, detailing and anything else Integra related.