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hatch lock stuck

30K views 53 replies 27 participants last post by  patm 
#1 ·
on my 99 gsr, the back hatch lock is stuck, the motor runs but nothing happens and i can't lift the hatch open, any tips?
 
#2 ·
stick the key in the key hole and turn it hard and it should open up. That's like the back up for the electronic latch
 
#5 ·
surprisingly it's a common problem for 99 tegs. it happened to mine about 4 months ago. i did a search and like 8,000 people have the same problem. the only thing i read u could do was to change the trunk lock motor. so i just deal wit it and use the key now.
 
#7 ·
Thats one thing that i dont like about the 98+ you have to walk around to the back of the car to open the hatch unlike the the 94-96 where you pop it next to the gas tank. I took some getting used to and i still pop my gas door trying to get my hatch open in my 00.
 
#8 ·
My 2000 JUST started doing this, like a few days ago. I'm wondering if anyone has fixed it, it's a pain in the ass to have to use the key everytime.

I did some looking around and it seems replacing the entire assembly (the motor and related components) is required to fix it. Mine is making a whirring noise when i pull the level instead of working like it should. From what i read, sound like an expensive fix :(
 
#9 ·
So i am looking to get this "fixed" on the GSR i just got... and while the "turn the key all the way to the right" indeed does work, i sure would like to have it 100% working (in that when i disarm my alarm i can open my trunk w/o the key)

but damn, the best price i could find to replace the assembly is $170 + shipping... that's pretty steeeeep
 
#13 ·
mine just broke around the 62,000 mark like a month ago. how many of you that say yours broke have speakers 10" and bigger in your trunk? i bought the car at 50,000 miles last year, put in 2 12's about 6 months ago, and a month ago it stopped working, my guess was the vibrations from the subs and not so much the actual quality of the part itself.

that or i refuse to accept the fact that out of 2 hondas, this would be the first thing that broke on its own.
 
#14 ·
its probably more or less because of terrible design. i've just learned to live with it. i justify it by thinking that in case thieves break into my car, they'd have one hell of a time removing whatever is in the trunk cause it won't pop open without the key.
 
#15 ·
kelly on Oct/18/05 said:
More: click & click.

If we all call Acura Customer Relations, perhaps they will fix this, and we won't all have to continue to buy the same faulty parts over and over.
oooh... that 2nd link is absolute gold !!
 
#16 ·
OK, so i have one shot at getting this fixed on my car (as the dealer said they'd reimburse me for the part)

I've read many posts on this problem and it still seems like everyone is on the fence on whether its:

#14
Part#: 74800-ST7-A02LOCK ASSY., TAILGATE
Price: $169.06

or

#25
Part#: 74840-ST7-A01 ACTUATOR ASSY. 1
Price: $58.27



Advice? Recommendations? Guesses?
 
#17 ·
MZ, if you can still turn the key to open the hatch, then i think 25 would be the problem. same issue that i had.

you can also verify it by taking out the rear trunk panel, and taking out part number 25..disconnecting it from 14 and the metal arm. then slide the hatch switch and see if the swing arm on 25 moves.
 
#18 ·
All of my parts broke. The lever (#15) would stick in the open position. I fixed this by grinding down the detent that it was sticking on.

My hatch light switch no longer works. It is part of #14. I also think this is a common problem.

And then #25. It would make noise and try to work, but didn't have enough torque.

So I would have them replace #14 since it will probably also fail and pay for #25 myself which is what I think the problem is.

There is a motor/switch in #14 that could fail and cause problems, but I don't think that is the problem. I don't know exactly what the motor and switch does. If you have the Helms, you can check it out and see exactly what the failure mode would be. I don't have the time right now.
 
#20 ·
Kelly and Jeremy, thanks for the advice.. i'll get #25 and have the dealer pay me back for that...

and i'll make sure to call that 800 # and raise hell, i've got 60,000+ people behind me!! lol
 
#22 ·
I wonder if they realize what hell you could raise for them if you turned against them MZ. These entire hatch lock mechanisms are obviously pooly designed. My 2000 latch is starting to stick in the open position which is very scary because sometimes i will slam the trunk shut and not realize that it is completely open for anyone to get into. I've also had it not latch and driven away.. that was... interesting. Do you guys think some WD-40 could fix the latch sticking?

-Ted
 
#23 ·
Some WD-40 might work. The lever is spring loaded to return to the closed position. There is a little bump in the middle of the travel to slow it down. What happens it the grease gets dirty and then the lever sticks on this little bump. I cleaned mine up, ground off the little bump and greased. This is probably the only permanent fix.

The switch action feels much better without the bump. It doesn't slam back. You really have to try to make it slam. The way my hand works, it returns beautifully. I don't think I can move my hand in such a way as to make it slam. I say slam, but it is not a radical slam by any means.

It is not a very hard fix and it should be quite obvious what the problem is when you have the switch in your hand. My description of the problem may not be perfect because I did this long ago, but you should still be able to clearly see the problem. The hardest part is getting the hatch cover back on.
 
#24 ·
I just looked at my previous post, and I had things backwards. I corrected that post.

I think the actuator (#25) is the problem. I think that latch assembly (#14) will probably also fail, so since it is more expensive I would have them pay for it which probably won't fix the problem. I would then buy the actuator myself which will fix the problem.
 
#25 ·
i have some what the same problem on my 01 gsr i can open my hatch with no problem what so ever but when i go to close it the hatch is locked lol so i have to use my key to unlock it which sometimes takes 3 or 4 attempts and then it will finally close. Where do you get the customer relations #? is it in the owners manual
 
#26 ·
kelly on Sep/15/05 said:
The whole power hatch release is crap. My release lever on the hatch got to where it would stick in the open position. I fixed this by grinding off the detent that slowed the levers return movement. Now the lever works great. Then my hatch light stopped working. The hatch light switch is in the latch assembly which is around $170 from Carland. It also has a motor in it. Then my actuator failed.

I don't like the fact that any new parts I buy are going to be the same crap since Honda has not fixed these parts.

I called Acura customer relations and told them all of this and that this is a common problem and that perhaps they should look into it. The response I got was that we don't care, this is an old model. I then wrote a letter and got no response. I also filled out the survey form that comes after a call to customer relations and explained this situation, and that I had written a letter with no response, and asked if they would respond - no response.

The problem is that there is not enough noise being made about this. Most of the failures are after the warranty, so it is hard for them to see this problem without people directly making them aware.

Here is the U.S. customer relations number: 1 (800) 382-2238.
 
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