94 integra wont crank - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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94 integra wont crank

Hi, I have a 94 integra RS and it won't crank. Battery is good. Don't hear the fuel pump working either. When I turn the ignition I don't get any test lights for battery, oil pressure, or engine check like I normally do. All the bulbs in the gauge are good too. How can the battery light not be on if I'm running off battery? Really strange..
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 10:39 PM
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check connection at battery? if not then check fuses if your not getting any power inside at all.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-20-2016, 02:00 PM
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Check your relays

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Today, I tried to start the car after not touching it for about a week. All the lights came on as usual but didn't start. I even heard the fuel pump prime. Turned off ignition and tried again. Problem came back.

All the fuses and relays are good. I forgot to mention that I am getting power inside the car. The only lights I get on the gauge cluster are brake, maint required, SRS, and seat belt. I know that when you are running off of battery before starting the car, the battery light should be on but it's strange that it wasn't. PGM-FI relay and plug tested good. It's got to either be the ECU or ignition switch. Something that tells those 3 lights (battery, oil pressure, or engine check) to turn on before starting. Any other thoughts?

Last edited by htownteg; 12-30-2016 at 03:21 PM.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 08:37 PM
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likely time for an ignition switch replace,
only about 50 clams if you diy.
try cleaning it just to see what happens:

DIY Ignition switch cleaning
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 02:02 PM
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What he said. The ignition switch is prolly the culprit. Before you take apart the ignition check the clutch safety switch. There's a plastic or rubber piece at the top or the clutch pedal the presses the button to tell the car it's in neutral. Press that button and try to crank it. You may need a screw driver to press it since it's up there pretty good
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 04:22 AM
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Check the main relay, solder breaks and does not make a good contact

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 07:58 PM
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Bad main relay solder joints will cause the car to quit running and not start intermittently. The starter will still crank, however.

If this has been an intermittent problem where sometimes the starter will crank and other times it won't, look at the ignition switch or starter relay.

If this is a manual transmission car that never had a problem starting and now it won't start at all, it is likely your clutch interlock switch pedal stopper. Look on your floor for small soft plastic pieces, off-white in color. If you find these, this is your problem. The part number is 46505-SA5-000. These are cheap and I recommend keeping spares in your car.

There are three of these pedal stoppers in a manual transmission car:

The clutch safety interlock switch engages its pedal stopper when the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor. If the pedal stopper fails, the starter won't crank.

Another switch engages its pedal stopper when the clutch pedal is all the way out. If this pedal stopper fails, the cruise control won't work since it thinks the clutch pedal is depressed.

The third switch is the brake light switch which engages the pedal stopper when the brake pedal is all the way out. When this pedal stopper fails, your brake lights will stay on and cruise control won't work.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wino View Post
likely time for an ignition switch replace,
only about 50 clams if you diy.
try cleaning it just to see what happens:

DIY Ignition switch cleaning
It was the ignition switch after all. I checked continuity like the manual specified and discovered there was no continuity between one of the connectors. Plugged them back in and wiggled the ignition switch cables and it worked but made my gauge cluster warning lights flicker like crazy. Probably a bad wire somewhere (there wasn't anything obvious I could see). Ordered a new ignition switch from Amazon for $27. Installed it and the fuel pump primed. First try, it just clicked. Tried again and it struggled but finally cranked and started. Hope the starter isn't going out. It was also like 16 degrees.

Quote:
Originally Posted by androsk View Post
Check the main relay, solder breaks and does not make a good contact

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Initially, I did think it was the main relay. I looked at the solder for any breaks but couldn't see any. I ordered a used one off eBay anyway but nothing changed, so I looked into troubleshooting the ignition switch.

Thanks everyone for your advice and input. I hope this will be helpful to someone in the future.

Last edited by htownteg; 01-15-2017 at 12:30 AM.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSR_Tuning View Post
What he said. The ignition switch is prolly the culprit. Before you take apart the ignition check the clutch safety switch. There's a plastic or rubber piece at the top or the clutch pedal the presses the button to tell the car it's in neutral. Press that button and try to crank it. You may need a screw driver to press it since it's up there pretty good
Funny, I forgot to mention it's a manual but you knew anyways. I thought about that but the clutch safety switch wouldn't affect the gauge cluster warning lights not testing and the fuel pump not priming.
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