my abs light came on - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 04:12 AM Thread Starter
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my abs light came on

What's going on everyone, I drive a 2000 Acura Integra ls 5 speed hatchback. So I was vacuming my car today and I got in there real good underneath the dash and everything, gave it a nice clean. Before vacuming I didn't have the abs light on. When I drove away from vacuming Walah an abs light popped up. I thought I must have hit a sensor or something when vacuming and I checked underneath the dash everything looked fine. I installed a itr rear sway bar with an asr reinforcement subframe kit a couple weeks ago. I checked the abs line by the subframe brace that looked fine.

Then I checked the fuses and found something unusual. In the abs fuse box two of the sensors were filled with some type of goo making contact with the other ends for the sensors. I tried cleaning them and I might air compress it out to make it easier. I think this might be my problem. Has onyone else experienced this? I noticed sometimes when I wash the car and pop the hood water gets on top sometimes by the fuse panel for the abs fuses and sensors. Can playing with those two rubber pieces that you twist left and right (don't know the name of them) help me close the hood for a tighter fit not allowing water in somehow? I'd just a guess, if so how many turns do I adjust. I'll update this thread if that's my problem and my be it can help others out if so, who knows I'll have to find out
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 04:46 AM
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I got that shit too in my car, didn't bother cleaning it out, my ABS light is on because of a bad wheel sensor, I think. I don't think much of ABS (not really a necessity to me). I had my light come on part time before I took out my bad drive axle, and I when I changed it the light now pops on every time I move. So I figured the wheel sensor on my RF went bad, but I also want to know about that goo.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 03:45 PM
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That 'goo' is dielectric grease. It armors the connections against corrosion, water intrusion, etc.

Leave it there. Your ABS light is from something else. Pull the codes and look it up.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ok i might be wrong but mybe this is a possibility of what I'm thinking. The goo is like everywhere where the sensor meets contact, shouldn't it be at least a little clean? The goo is not that thick it almost has a sort of water texture to it making it very thin. The car is well taken care of idk how a wheel sensor would go bad but how can i check to scan the codes? Can autozone scan the codes? Also i cant live with any light on the instrument panel lol its bugs me.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-21-2016, 02:06 AM Thread Starter
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I found another thread witch someone posted the same picture as I did, after reading some other forums and looking through some other videos looks like I have to stick a paper clip or something to some sensor underneath the passenger dash and count how many long flashes and short flashes for the abs. I guess I have to do that first to find out my problem. Is it ok to drive like this?? I also forgot to mention I did my rear brakes a couple months ago but I hardly drive the car would that affect anything? This isn't the first brake job I did and I'm confident I did everything correctly. This little abs light is bugging me! Any help is appreciated!
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quick update I counted the flashes from the abs light! I got 8 long flashes and 1 short flash and another 1 long flash followed by 7 short flashes.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by blackandtanteg View Post
Quick update I counted the flashes from the abs light! I got 8 long flashes and 1 short flash and another 1 long flash followed by 7 short flashes.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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ok so I have a code for Central Processing Unit (CPU), and RL= REAR LEFT. Would one cause a code for the other? Should I clean the sensor? Would my subframe brace have anything to do with it being snug against the abs line?
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-24-2016, 01:31 PM
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I don't mean to be a dick but use some common sense. if there is a code for a sensor, start with cleaning it. if that doesn't work, replace sensor
if you were vacuuming around and now have a cpu code, check wiring around the abs control unit, you probably had a weak connection somewhere
and bumped it with the vac. if you didn't have an abs light on immediately following, or shortly after rear sway install I wouldn't think theyre related
unless you pinched the abs sensor wiring somewhere in the process just enough to have worn down now.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-24-2016, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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I don't mean to be a dick but use some common sense. if there is a code for a sensor, start with cleaning it. if that doesn't work, replace sensor
if you were vacuuming around and now have a cpu code, check wiring around the abs control unit, you probably had a weak connection somewhere
and bumped it with the vac. if you didn't have an abs light on immediately following, or shortly after rear sway install I wouldn't think theyre related
unless you pinched the abs sensor wiring somewhere in the process just enough to have worn down now.
cleaned the rear left sensor didn't look to dirty. They only reason I'm asking for help is because I cant find a good thread where people fixed their abs light. Ive searched but they always end up with someone not responding or not stating what fixed their problem. I looked at the abs line for the subframe and it doesn't look that pinched. it looks ok to me. I also looked under the dash where I vacummed by the pedals but everything looks fine I couldn't find the abs control unit though. I have a quick question though does it matter which way the 40a green relay faces in the abs fuse box?
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-25-2016, 12:20 PM
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if I remember correctly the abs control unit is directly behind center console closest to firewall. encased in a weird plastic housing.
as for the relay no, it shouldn't matter the direction. open is open and closed is closed.

edit to include sidenote. relays don't have an amp rating, those are fuses or fusible links.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-29-2016, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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if I remember correctly the abs control unit is directly behind center console closest to firewall. encased in a weird plastic housing.
as for the relay no, it shouldn't matter the direction. open is open and closed is closed.

edit to include sidenote. relays don't have an amp rating, those are fuses or fusible links.
I'm pretty sure I found it. I unclipped some clips and check the wiring by the control unit where I might have touched something when vacuuming. Everything looks fine. I ran my hand across the carpet again pretending I'm vacuuming to feel anything and came up with nothing. Cleaned sensor nothing. BUT after washing my car today the sensor went away its very weird.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-29-2016, 11:52 AM
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cross your fingers and hope for no more light! haha
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Well I'm back on here because guess what came back abs light again. I was driving with it for a couple of days and today I stopped to check out the Left Rear wheel while after about 10 minutes of driving. My left rear wheel gets really hot, like hotter than all the other wheels. I'm sure the rotor is extremely hot and you can smell the brakes when you put your nose against the wheel. I did a brake job on it like a couple months ago for the rear. and When I first got the car last year in September I bleed the brakes and the other rear nipple wouldn't let brake fluid pass so I cleaned the nipple because that was clogged with gunk and that did the job. I wonder if I might have a caliper issue or something similar to the nipple being filled with gunk not letting brake fluid into the caliper or something. I think it can be a caliper problem, what do you guys think reading this thread. Is it safe to drive with the caliper getting that hot? Is there a chance the rotor can warp or crack?
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