Rust Repair - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-25-2016, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Rust Repair

Looking for some opinions, info, or tips on how I should tackle this.

All is appreciated.
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-25-2016, 08:55 PM
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Are you going to do this yourself or take it to a shop? Those panels look pretty well gone


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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-25-2016, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Are you going to do this yourself or take it to a shop? Those panels look pretty well gone


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Im planning on taking it to a shop. I wish i had the tools & exp to do it myself
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-25-2016, 09:28 PM
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Well, how much do you like this car? To get that amount of rust repaired the correct way, it would be very costly. When i say the right way, i mean cutting out the bad material an welding in new material. There were some integra hatchback rear quarters for sale on ebay a little while ago. Used of course, no one makes an aftermarket quarter panel for our cars.

Now, there is a cheaper way to "fix" the rust areas. Salvage what you can, use some sort of rust coating and patch over the holes with bondo and fiberglass. I say "fix" because rust will be back within a year or two max with this method.

What's your budget for this work?


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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 12:59 PM
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I recently had my rust repaired on the back quarters of my 00 GSR, and like Dante said there are ways to fix it, but the proper ways do cost you a pretty penny. My rust was very minor, just starting out, the standard area just like yours (right where the rear bumper edge meets the wheel arch. Although a very small area, it cost me around $2000 to get new metal welded in and painted by a shop. It was a good deal in my opinion and I got a bit of a deal because my car was getting a full paint job from a hail storm it went through. (When you add labour, paint, materials, etc it is rather reasonable)

So I have a few questions, do you plan on keeping this car around for the foreseeable future? If so, splurge and spend the money to get it done properly but at that extent I could see it costing you more than the car is worth if you get it done by a shop, but to each his own. In my case it was worth it because I do plan to keep my teg, although with the amount of money I've spent of it recently, ill never get my money back.

That's another thing, do you thinks its worth potentially putting upwards of $3000 into fixing this, very likely it would be more.

If this is say your first car, and you don't have too much riding on the line, I would cease the moment and use this as a learning experience, look into see what it takes to fix it yourself, see how much you can do. Then contact a shop if you don't feel you can do it on your own. In my case I was offered a discounted rate if i did the cutting, and prep work myself but didn't have the time or space to do it.(very subject to how good of a relationship you have with this shop you plan on taking it to).

I'm sorry for so much info crammed into here, but if i can offer one piece of advice is don't go the bondo route, the previous owner of my vehicle did and I paid for it a few years later, it held pretty well through 3 Canadian salt infested winters but still. And now I'm glad i spent the money and got it back to fresh metal and not having to worry about it coming back.
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 09:01 PM
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^ Out of curiosity, what makes you think where the bumper meets the rear fender is the only rust prone spot? I am also in the Canadian prairies, and on my 99 integra, I am getting a small amount of bubbling in the same area as OP in front of the rear wheels near the frame rails. That spot is totally separate from the ultra common bumper/rear qp spots.

Have you ever had your interior apart? When I had mine apart, there was some fairly noticeable rust on the inner area of whatever this is called (not my pic, look at the arrows):



I couldn't imagine how much it would cost to properly fix all the rust on my car. Probably what my car is currently worth.

Last edited by stockgs-r; 01-26-2016 at 09:06 PM.
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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Well, how much do you like this car? To get that amount of rust repaired the correct way, it would be very costly. When i say the right way, i mean cutting out the bad material an welding in new material. There were some integra hatchback rear quarters for sale on ebay a little while ago. Used of course, no one makes an aftermarket quarter panel for our cars.

Now, there is a cheaper way to "fix" the rust areas. Salvage what you can, use some sort of rust coating and patch over the holes with bondo and fiberglass. I say "fix" because rust will be back within a year or two max with this method.

What's your budget for this work?


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Well this is my first car that i had for a few months now and i thought about letting it go and getting another one but I would really like to restore it. Im willing to save up to repair it but I'm not going to be blind to the situation... If its just too much money to repair I'll have to let her go and start with another but I'm making that my last resort.
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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I recently had my rust repaired on the back quarters of my 00 GSR, and like Dante said there are ways to fix it, but the proper ways do cost you a pretty penny. My rust was very minor, just starting out, the standard area just like yours (right where the rear bumper edge meets the wheel arch. Although a very small area, it cost me around $2000 to get new metal welded in and painted by a shop. It was a good deal in my opinion and I got a bit of a deal because my car was getting a full paint job from a hail storm it went through. (When you add labour, paint, materials, etc it is rather reasonable)

So I have a few questions, do you plan on keeping this car around for the foreseeable future? If so, splurge and spend the money to get it done properly but at that extent I could see it costing you more than the car is worth if you get it done by a shop, but to each his own. In my case it was worth it because I do plan to keep my teg, although with the amount of money I've spent of it recently, ill never get my money back.

That's another thing, do you thinks its worth potentially putting upwards of $3000 into fixing this, very likely it would be more.

If this is say your first car, and you don't have too much riding on the line, I would cease the moment and use this as a learning experience, look into see what it takes to fix it yourself, see how much you can do. Then contact a shop if you don't feel you can do it on your own. In my case I was offered a discounted rate if i did the cutting, and prep work myself but didn't have the time or space to do it.(very subject to how good of a relationship you have with this shop you plan on taking it to).

I'm sorry for so much info crammed into here, but if i can offer one piece of advice is don't go the bondo route, the previous owner of my vehicle did and I paid for it a few years later, it held pretty well through 3 Canadian salt infested winters but still. And now I'm glad i spent the money and got it back to fresh metal and not having to worry about it coming back.
My scenario is similar to yours because I don't have the space. It's my first car and i do plan on keeping it forever making it apart of my collection that im planning to build but im all for DIYs but I don't have the tools or someone to refer to as far as bodywork goes.
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 96Hondaintegra View Post
Well this is my first car that i had for a few months now and i thought about letting it go and getting another one but I would really like to restore it. Im willing to save up to repair it but I'm not going to be blind to the situation... If its just too much money to repair I'll have to let her go and start with another but I'm making that my last resort.
I'm ballparking it, but at a reputable body shop, with good work that will last 5-10 years before the rust comes back, I think you're looking at $4-7k USD.

The amount of work involved in getting the old metal cut out, getting the new metal fitted, getting the panels welded and smooth, filling and sanding, paint prep, painting (the majority of the car), and finishing, not to mention complete disassembly and reassembly of your car from the front seats back, is into the 100h+ range. That's very spendy.

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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-27-2016, 09:31 AM
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^ Out of curiosity, what makes you think where the bumper meets the rear fender is the only rust prone spot?
I didn't mean to say thats the only spot the tegs are prone to rust, but in my opinion it is a very popular area in most rust cases that I've seen in tegs. That being said I did have rust starting on the wheel arch lip in the same area OP and you had rust. The reason people like us owners who see harsh winters suffer a great deal in my opinion is due to the overall Lip design on the tegs. It collects and flows down to each side, hence the from rust toward the front and the rust toward the back, And the only way to prevent that is during the slushy season keep it clean as possible. I usually used a water bottle and a rag, but that only goes so far.

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Have you ever had your interior apart?
Yes I have indeed taken it apart, and I cant say I noticed any rust there, given I wasn't hunting for it, but none the less nothing stood out. My car has been repaired once for rust already though via body filler method, so it may be a problem in due time.

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My scenario is similar to yours because I don't have the space. It's my first car and i do plan on keeping it forever making it apart of my collection that im planning to build but im all for DIYs but I don't have the tools or someone to refer to as far as bodywork goes.
In my opinion, this seems like a very slippery slope for you, I would much rather have a clean base to work with, it seems like a lot of work to end up at the start of the race so to speak. I could see this costing you upwards of $5K. If you can find a cleaner car/base to work from I would do it. But this is also coming from someone who has spent a decent amount of money on a car I've only had for 2 years and barely put 10,000KMs on it. - IF you are going to decide to bite the bullet and tackle the rust, make sure the car is mechanically sound and worth it. How healthy is the motor, tranny, etc.. Just gotta make sure its worth it. I've had a valve explode requiring a head rebuild and a clutch go on me then I fixed the rust, and looking back I probably wouldn't spend that kinda money again.
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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-27-2016, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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^ Out of curiosity, what makes you think where the bumper meets the rear fender is the only rust prone spot?
I didn't mean to say thats the only spot the tegs are prone to rust, but in my opinion it is a very popular area in most rust cases that I've seen in tegs. That being said I did have rust starting on the wheel arch lip in the same area OP and you had rust. The reason people like us owners who see harsh winters suffer a great deal in my opinion is due to the overall Lip design on the tegs. It collects and flows down to each side, hence the from rust toward the front and the rust toward the back, And the only way to prevent that is during the slushy season keep it clean as possible. I usually used a water bottle and a rag, but that only goes so far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stockgs-r View Post
Have you ever had your interior apart?
Yes I have indeed taken it apart, and I cant say I noticed any rust there, given I wasn't hunting for it, but none the less nothing stood out. My car has been repaired once for rust already though via body filler method, so it may be a problem in due time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 96Hondaintegra View Post
My scenario is similar to yours because I don't have the space. It's my first car and i do plan on keeping it forever making it apart of my collection that im planning to build but im all for DIYs but I don't have the tools or someone to refer to as far as bodywork goes.
In my opinion, this seems like a very slippery slope for you, I would much rather have a clean base to work with, it seems like a lot of work to end up at the start of the race so to speak. I could see this costing you upwards of $5K. If you can find a cleaner car/base to work from I would do it. But this is also coming from someone who has spent a decent amount of money on a car I've only had for 2 years and barely put 10,000KMs on it. - IF you are going to decide to bite the bullet and tackle the rust, make sure the car is mechanically sound and worth it. How healthy is the motor, tranny, etc.. Just gotta make sure its worth it. I've had a valve explode requiring a head rebuild and a clutch go on me then I fixed the rust, and looking back I probably wouldn't spend that kinda money again.
It is and it's not like I have thousands just laying around but I have been deciding between just stopping while im ahead and getting rid of it and starting over with a much cleaner teg with little to no rust. The car has over 270k miles on the dash. Mainly everything is original but I was planning on swapping the motor further down the line but like I said up there ?? even don't my pride don't want to let me get rid of the car I don't want to be blind to the situation and make a not so smart decision and dump hundreds in to a body that's not going to last. This is what brought me here for opinions and insight from guys like the ones on this thread.
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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-28-2016, 01:18 PM
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If I was in your shoes, I would probably start looking for a new base to work with, that being said no matter what car your get, there is always going to be head aches and problems. Ask anyone on here, I can almost guarantee nobody has had 100% smooth sailing with their vehicle when they first got it. The motor mileage isn't a huge deal if you plan to swap, as long as it run well. How is the overall quality of the paint on the car?

I like to think of it like this, I fixed my rust properly, and chances are I will never have to worry about it again(knock on wood). Although since that repair, I vowed to never let it see snow again, so it sits 7-8 months of the year now in storage.

It's really hard for me to form an opinion on what you should do, Best bet is get a quote on the repair from a shop and then make your decision.
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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-28-2016, 01:35 PM
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It's really hard for me to form an opinion on what you should do, Best bet is get a quote on the repair from a shop and then make your decision.
This is good advice, and definitely shop around if you can to get some prices to compare. Also, ask each shop you visit exactly how they would repair that rust to make sure you are comparing apples to apples.
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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-28-2016, 08:10 PM
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Could you use this car with 270,000 miles as your daily driver, while you look for a rust free teg, in AZ?

Here's one in Scotsdale: If the autotrader dot com link (below) doesn't work the zip code is 85260, it's a 1999 with 140.000 miles no rust for $2,999, posted Jan 27, 2016.

For the price of one of your rust repairs you can have a car with no rust and half the miles.

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...adius=200&mmt=[ACURA[INTEG[]][]]&listingId=419645732&Log=0

Last edited by stlcounty; 01-28-2016 at 08:19 PM.
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