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Old 01-21-2012, 04:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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ok...seems weird not an everyday situation, but for me it is......sometimes, my brakes are sticky, i can tell, cause my brake pedal is hard....it happens everytime after i drive and shut off...is there an air bubble in there? it'll stiff'n for a few minutes...the soften after driving a while....sucks because it makes me gas more to make it pick up...should i bleed the brakes? bought the car not long ago....and it came like this..rear brakes it is...let me know your suggestions and opinions...i just wanna know what it is before i attempt anything...
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by reddc2_geezer View Post
ok...seems weird not an everyday situation, but for me it is......sometimes, my brakes are sticky, i can tell, cause my brake pedal is hard....it happens everytime after i drive and shut off...is there an air bubble in there? it'll stiff'n for a few minutes...the soften after driving a while....sucks because it makes me gas more to make it pick up...should i bleed the brakes? bought the car not long ago....and it came like this..rear brakes it is...let me know your suggestions and opinions...i just wanna know what it is before i attempt anything...
and no its not my e brakes....i forgot to mention if i stop and stomp on the brakes and press the brake pedal alll the way it will some what loosen and be normal again..but it will soon be sticky again...
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Old 01-21-2012, 01:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sounds to me like a seized caliper. It may or may not be caused by a seized parking brake lever. Either way, the result is the same. You'll need to replace the caliper.

I had the same problem a few months ago. The pedal was stiff at start-up. As I drove, it would soften. After a 10-mile trip on the interstate, it got to the point of brake-fade. Figuring out which caliper was seized was easy. The wheel had a lot more brake dust than the others. The pads had excessive wear. The rotor and caliper had excessive corrosion, due to excessive heat. As a matter of fact, I could put my hand near the face of each wheel, and feel the temperature difference between it and the rest of the brakes. It was a lot hotter.


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Old 01-21-2012, 01:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Try molycoating the part where the pads slide in the caliper. Thats what we use at the honda dealership to ensure the brake pads dont hang up
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Old 01-21-2012, 03:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thanks i was starting to think it was an air bubble in the brake lines and re bleeding would fix it...but thanks...so replacing the caliper...eh...easy fix...2 bolts...but deng i hate bleeding brakes by myself...cool...now i know...its not the ebrake cable i know for a fact...so definately bad caliper...just one or should i just do both sides?
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Old 01-21-2012, 03:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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sadly i have to wait till spring...but will buy parts...unless i can find a heated garage..or a heat gun...dont wanna be torquing down frozen bolts
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Old 01-21-2012, 03:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Check your slide pins as well. Might just be stuck. My friend Matt and I run into it ALL THE TIME on all kinds of cars.

Some people are lazy and don't lube parts when they change brakes
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddc2_geezer View Post
thanks i was starting to think it was an air bubble in the brake lines and re bleeding would fix it...but thanks...so replacing the caliper...eh...easy fix...2 bolts...but deng i hate bleeding brakes by myself...cool...now i know...its not the ebrake cable i know for a fact...so definately bad caliper...just one or should i just do both sides?
It still might just be the pads..


Quote:
Originally Posted by DPancoast View Post
Check your slide pins as well. Might just be stuck. My friend Matt and I run into it ALL THE TIME on all kinds of cars.

Some people are lazy and don't lube parts when they change brakes
Agreed, they are supposed to molycoat those also when doing brake maintenance

Last edited by 95lscoupe; 01-21-2012 at 09:43 PM. Reason: changed text
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:07 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Some times the (old) rubber brake hoses will fail internally and not allow the brake fluid to exit the caliper, feels just like a stuck caliper.
Air in the brake lines will cause a soft brake pedal but not cause brake drag.
Most likely your problem is/are stuck caliper(s) and/or caliper slider pins and/or failed rubber brake hose/hoses.
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Old 01-26-2012, 05:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyCat View Post
Some times the (old) rubber brake hoses will fail internally and not allow the brake fluid to exit the caliper, feels just like a stuck caliper.
Air in the brake lines will cause a soft brake pedal but not cause brake drag.
Most likely your problem is/are stuck caliper(s) and/or caliper slider pins and/or failed rubber brake hose/hoses.

ok today, while driving, for some fricken reason it wouldnt go past 40mph...wtf!! so at the red light i pumped the shit out of the brakes and it got better...but as i rolled off again it started getting sticky again....dam its too cold for me to even wanna unbolt anything....dont wanna break or strip any bolts...but i feel its getting worst...will it eventually seize and be harder to replace in the future? i do dd this car so...im guessing its the front right side, cuz coming down a hill that side vibrated alot and there was alot of movement...when i got hoome i felt the rotors and the front brakes were super hot both side and the rears were just hot...change both front? or just that bad one? its so cold i dont even wanna look at em now...i know lazy ass...but hey when its 3 degrees in your garage you'll understand...fuck me
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:01 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Any reason to think your brake pedal - push rod - booster - master cylinder assembly has changed?
Too litlle free play can cause your brakes to lock/drag as you drive.

Check your brake pedal free play per this article:
PART 5 - How the Master Cylinder works

Last edited by DaddyCat; 01-27-2012 at 06:45 AM.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyCat View Post
Any reason to think your brake pedal - push rod - booster - master cylinder assembly has changed?
Too litlle free play can cause your brakes to lock/drag as you drive.

Check your brake pedal free play per this article:
PART 5 - How the Master Cylinder works
who knows......i pumped the braked with the car off 2 days ago like 20 times and stomping the sh*t out of it...seemed to have fixed the stickyness....these two days its been fine...hehehe but only time will tell....im worried though...with that out of the way im guessing my master cylinder is going bad...reading the whole article...maybe the springs in there are going bad closing the gaps causing it to not let the return fluid back in causing it to stay closed and slowly lock...thanks...the article got me a feeling of what is going bad....
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Turn the lug nuts counterclockwise with the lug wrench until they are finger tight. Chock one wheel on the opposite axel to prevent the vehicle from rolling. Raise the vehicle using the floor jack and set it on a jack stand, placed underneath the frame.

2
Remove the lug nuts and wheel by hand. Place the drop pan underneath the brake assembly and thoroughly clean the brakes using the brake cleaner spray.

3
Unbolt the brake caliper with the socket set. Pull the caliper up and out of the caliper bracket and then remove the brake pads by hand.

4
Spray the inside of the caliper thoroughly with brake cleaner to remove all the built-up brake dust, road dirt and old grease from the caliper slide pins. Wipe the pins with the rag to remove any remaining dust, dirt or old lube.

5
Lubricate the caliper slide pins with the white lithium grease. Reinsert the brake pads and put the brake caliper back into the caliper bracket by hand. Thread the caliper bolts in by hand and then tighten them with the socket set.

6
Reinstall the wheel and lug nuts, lower the vehicle off the jack stand, and then tighten the lug nut to the specific torque required for your particular year, make and model using the torque wrench.


im doing this tomorrow.....pissed me off today...stuck so bad i couldnt even move...its alot warmer now so i can do so..

here the story...drove all day long no issues....bam i let it idle for 15 minutes..they lock...couldnt even get out of my drive way for 15 minutes of pumping...made me late for a important appointment...cleaning caliper slide pins and lubing to see if that helps...if not replacing the rubber hose...if not...prop valve..thats a bitch to do..then if not last and must be the culprit MASTER cylinder...even when stuck..i super mashed the brake pedal..it went all the way...giving it fluid like it should...but still stuck..while driving front starts to shake and pedal is stiff...got so hot i even lit a cigarette off the rotors..well almost..both front...more to the passenger and making the driver side work harder...plenty of evidence on the pass. side

Last edited by reddc2_geezer; 02-14-2012 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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ok today was warm enough to actually do something...i took off the caliper and all looks good...the piston is a bit rusted but looks fine to me...the noticeable thing was the top slider pin....not like the bottom one where if u press it in it pops back out...the tope one..it just stays down not retracting, yet it wont even compress...the inner pad looks to be worn in a diagnal way and has a small crack in the middle...funny thing is they're stamped honda pads too...can i bring them back and get new ones? LOL...i have no proof of purchase for them pad..just thinking if they honor their products like sears do craftsman...i still have to compress the piston with a c clamp...hate putting front brakes back on....but with it like that....

i put both front wheels in the air and pumped the pedal till it got hard...went to turn both wheels and turn out to be the divers side not the passenger like i guessed...but the passenger still had a slight drag..when it should have been freely spinning..but with the breaks pumped i guess...

whats ur thought on this can it just be that top slider pin that can cause it to slowly lock up?
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