Join Date: Aug 2011
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I just wanted to report that about my dreaded light on the abs unit in my '94 LS. The light had been on for about ten years. The buzzing started about that time as well. (At the time, I was busy, didn't care much about cars/didn't know much about cars/didn't care much to fix it.) After about 2 years (8 years ago), I took the 10 Amp fuse out and shut the abs off. I had been driving the car w/o a functional ABS since then. Recently, I've been interested in fixing my car up for weekend drives. I did quite a bit of research on how to go about fixing it.
First, i just replaced my wheels - at the same time, I cleaned the sensors.
Second, after reading #6 on this thread, I decided to replace just the Modulator O-ring (code 1-3). Luckily, Majestic honda is down street from me so it was a quick order.
Third, last Sunday, I replaced the Modulator O-ring. Procedures can be found at T-I, H-T and C-I sites. But here is the gist.
3.1 - Turn on your car. Bleed the ABS to reduce the liquid pressure (if there's any).
3.2 - Turn it off. Disconnect the ground battery wire (to be safe).
3.3 - Remove the air box for easier maneuvers later on (3x 10mm bolts).
3.4 - Untie the six (6) brake lines - 4 to the wheels and 2 to the main reservoir. Do not take them off completely yet. wait until you remove the next 4 bolts so it's less messy
3.5 - put a rag under the abs unit. Remove the 4 x 12mm bolts on the bracket that holds the ABS unit. And 1 x 10 mm bolt to the ABS fuse box. Untie the electrical snaps (orange color; you need to snap it off of the holder first before you can untie from each other).
3.6 - put more rags under the lines. Remove the lines completely and quickly.
3.7 - Remove the bracket/ABS unit. put a small bucket below the lines so that they won't drip in the engine bay.
3.8 - Put the ABS unit in the working tray. Take out the modulator by removing 2 x 12 bolts below. Here you will see the O-ring. Remove it using a tooth pick. Clean with a clean rag and brake fluid cleaner. Mine visually was fine but I replaced it, nonetheless.
3.9 - After replacing the o-ring, tie the modulator back to the unit. I torqued to 10 ft-lbs (but 8 ft-lbs is good enough).
3.10 - clean the whole unit with brake cleaner. put it back/battery back on.
Fourth, I then refilled the reservoir with DOT 3 fluid and bled the ABS (turn the car on, then off then bleed to help it build pressure) about 5 -6 times, until there's no air.
Fifth, filled the main brake fluid reservoir (at the brake master) and then bled the brake/wheels - RR, LF, LR, RF.
Sixth, test drive. Buzz at first turn on, then nothing. Good sign! At first, the wheels were still locking so I thought the ABS unit didn't work. Then after driving for about 10 mins. I turned the car off (warmed up at this point). I guess that must have reset the ECU. After that, the ABS worked but the ABS light is still on. No locking but after a few days, the buzzing became progressively more frequent. Not a good sign. But the wheels still not locking up.
Seventh, so I decided to replace the O-ring for the ABS motor as well. That was my project this weekend. Ordered the #24 o-ring from majectic honda.
Eighth, took out the abs unit as like last weekend. took the abs motor off (2x12 mm bolts on the bottom). took the o-ring off. I also took the solenoid/piston/pump off as well.
Ninth, I cleaned the piston with brake cleaner. There is another o-ring on that piston. I took that out and cleaned it as well. Put it back. Put the piston back. Put the new o-ring on. Put everything back the same way.
Tenth, tried to bleed the abs first. turned the car on for about 5 min but ABS Motor did not work (oh nooooo). at the point I was thinking about deleting the ABS or going to a junk yard (more likely scenario) next week. So I decided to bleed the wheels so I could drive it. I then took the fuse off.
Eleventh, Put the fuse back on. Turned the car on. the ABS motor buzz started, only 1 buzz (yay).... I proceeded to bleed the abs. then the wheels again (not necessary but i did it anyway).
Twelfth, No more ABS light. No more buzzing incessantly. It only buzzes once at start up and after quick brakes during testing. So this seems to work well.
A few things: 1). This is how I did with my car. Yours may be differently (though it - the o-ring problem - is more common cause of the abs light than believed). Your problem(s) may be different. 2.) Do a ECU reset after you are done fixing the abs. 3.) sometimes the abs motor may be bad, get a junkyard/craigslist one to replace it or replace the whole abs unit - modulator/module/motor. 4.) I call a junkyard near where I live, it's $30 for the whole unit if you want to extract it yourself. 5.) I did it because I wanted to learn. Thanks everyone for posting so that I was able to fix myself. Pay it forward as they said. 6.) I have to say, it's harder than replacing a mitral/aortic valves or performing CABG.
Also, Honda Accord 1994, 95, 96 all have the same abs units as the integra 94-97. Thanks everyone. it was fun.