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Old 04-14-2011, 01:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Fixing 'ABS pump motor over-run'

I have a 1995 Acura Integra 3-door Special Edition and had my ABS light turn on late August 2010 while driving on the highway. After getting advice and suggestions from this site, I refilled my ABS reservoir on 9-14-10 and the ABS light immediately turned off. I never had a problem with the ABS light again until 3 days ago on 4-11-11. I bought some more DOT 3 brake fluid and filled up the reservoir a little more (added about 5 ml), but the ABS light is not going off now. I jumped the factory two-prong diagnostic plug earlier this evening and got diagnostic code 1 -, which means ABS pump motor over-run. Any ideas on where to start trouble-shooting this diagnostic code or what the most common culprit is for this diagnostic code? I tried to remove the ABS fuse B2 to reset the ABS system, but still am getting code 1 -.
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Ahhh...the dreaded code 1: Pump Motor Over-run. Basically, the pump motor for the ABS unit is hosed. You basically have 2 options:
  1. Source another pump - either same year from junk yard or purchase ($$$$). Replace pump - it's plug and play, but if you don't have experience with braking systems and ABS - hire someone! ...OR... source a newer model ABS pump - they are the round style pump that started in '96 and newer I believe and retrofit that in (again - same disclaimer as above). The newer pumps are MUCH more reliable than the older ones.
  2. Do what I did - a non-ABS conversion. Source the MC, booster, prop valve and lines from an RS, and live without ABS. It will be cheaper this way.
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRutski View Post
Ahhh...the dreaded code 1: Pump Motor Over-run. Basically, the pump motor for the ABS unit is hosed. You basically have 2 options:
  1. Source another pump - either same year from junk yard or purchase ($$$$). Replace pump - it's plug and play, but if you don't have experience with braking systems and ABS - hire someone! ...OR... source a newer model ABS pump - they are the round style pump that started in '96 and newer I believe and retrofit that in (again - same disclaimer as above). The newer pumps are MUCH more reliable than the older ones.
  2. Do what I did - a non-ABS conversion. Source the MC, booster, prop valve and lines from an RS, and live without ABS. It will be cheaper this way.
Thank you JRutski, I will probably make one attempt to going to the local junkyard to try to pull a similar model car's ABS modulator unit (contains the ABS pump, reservoir, and on/off switch). Any advice on how to remove one at the junkyard and how it install it on my car? Secondarily, if anyone has a spare ABS modulator unit that works for my car model, please send me a message.

Last edited by NebHurr8; 04-15-2011 at 02:28 AM.
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I have the same problem on my 95 Integra GSR and same code which is the only one it throws. For the past 7 years I have had the dreaded code and have dealt with it. Try going through the troubleshooting for it first. It could be other more simple things as well. I am going to try and trouble shoot this on my day off. The pump was replaced a year before we bought it and was working great. About a year after we bought her, the code came back on but never bothered to deal with it. Maybe it is time...... LOL.

Check the online manual pages from Section 19-71 to 19-80 before anything is assumed.
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I have the same problem on my 95 Integra GSR and same code which is the only one it throws. For the past 7 years I have had the dreaded code and have dealt with it. Try going through the troubleshooting for it first. It could be other more simple things as well. I am going to try and trouble shoot this on my day off. The pump was replaced a year before we bought it and was working great. About a year after we bought her, the code came back on but never bothered to deal with it. Maybe it is time...... LOL.

Check the online manual pages from Section 19-71 to 19-80 before anything is assumed.
DARKNGL, please do share with me what you find on your troubleshooting evaluation using the Acura Service Manual. I am to the part of checking my 14P modular unit connector for connectivity and voltage for terminals 4 and 11 connections. I am not exactly sure how to do this, but I will at least look first and then probably stop by Harbor Freight to get a voltmeter. Anyone else care to explain step by step how to do this?
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Very often the O-rings leak at the acumulator (#23) and less often at the motor (#24). Both O-rings are cheap and not too hard to replace. Just make sure you relieve the pressure in the ABS unit via the bleeder before any disassembly!
https://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/...ODULATOR%20(1)
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Old 04-15-2011, 05:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Very often the O-rings leak at the acumulator (#23) and less often at the motor (#24). Both O-rings are cheap and not too hard to replace. Just make sure you relieve the pressure in the ABS unit via the bleeder before any disassembly!
https://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/...ODULATOR%20(1)
DaddyCat, how do you know whether the ABS modulator is leaking from one of these O-rings? Direct visualization? Are they pretty easy to replace, that is, do you just remove those two components to replace the O-rings or do you have to completely remove the entire ABS modulator?

Last edited by NebHurr8; 04-15-2011 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If you have a dealer near you I would suggest them but if you can wait for delivery the link I gave will sell them but they will be "out of stock" and it will take about a week for them to get them from their supplier.


It is not possible to know if the acumulator o-ring is leaking (unless you see fluid under the ABS unit) but it often is the cause of the over run trouble code. The acumulator o-ring can be changed with the ABS unit in place by removing the hold down bolts (leave the brake lines attached) and placing a short 2X4 under the ABS unit to allow access to the 2 bolts holding the acumulator from underneath. Make sure you bleed off the pressure before disassembly!

If you replace the motor o-ring it can be done in place but it's easier to remove the ABS unit. There are 2 feed lines from the master cylinder that will leak and drain the master if you don't plug them. I used chop sticks to plug the feed lines.

This is the write up I used as a guide when I did my acumulator and motor o-rings.
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1451186

Last edited by DaddyCat; 04-16-2011 at 09:20 AM.
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Old 04-26-2011, 10:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well, now that we have had two to three days of over 80 degree weather, my ABS light has now spontaneously turned off. My best guess is the o-ring seal leak stopped from some temperature-related reason.
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:13 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NebHurr8 View Post
Well, now that we have had two to three days of over 80 degree weather, my ABS light has now spontaneously turned off. My best guess is the o-ring seal leak stopped from some temperature-related reason.

Exactly, old rubber becomes hard and warm temperatures soften it enough to seal again. Take advantage of the nice weather and replace those 2 o-rings that are easy to access. The dozen or so that seal the solenoids may be the cause of the leak but untill I can source replacements I'm stuck with my ABS motor running more often than it should. However I have No trouble codes since I replaced the motor and accumulator o-rings.
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:01 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Post Modulator disassembly, motor and accum seal replacement

Hi all.

I've had an ABS 1-0 code for awhile now, after some research, i bought the replacement seals, and installed them yesterday...

the old seals looked good... but the accumulator looked cooked...













i'm going to continue the diags by checking the wiring, grounds, fuses, etc and will report back
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:53 AM   #12 (permalink)
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You never reported back. Updates?
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Old 09-30-2012, 01:36 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Hi all,

I just wanted to report that about my dreaded light on the abs unit in my '94 LS. The light had been on for about ten years. The buzzing started about that time as well. (At the time, I was busy, didn't care much about cars/didn't know much about cars/didn't care much to fix it.) After about 2 years (8 years ago), I took the 10 Amp fuse out and shut the abs off. I had been driving the car w/o a functional ABS since then. Recently, I've been interested in fixing my car up for weekend drives. I did quite a bit of research on how to go about fixing it.

First, i just replaced my wheels - at the same time, I cleaned the sensors.

Second, after reading #6 on this thread, I decided to replace just the Modulator O-ring (code 1-3). Luckily, Majestic honda is down street from me so it was a quick order.

Third, last Sunday, I replaced the Modulator O-ring. Procedures can be found at T-I, H-T and C-I sites. But here is the gist.
3.1 - Turn on your car. Bleed the ABS to reduce the liquid pressure (if there's any).
3.2 - Turn it off. Disconnect the ground battery wire (to be safe).
3.3 - Remove the air box for easier maneuvers later on (3x 10mm bolts).
3.4 - Untie the six (6) brake lines - 4 to the wheels and 2 to the main reservoir. Do not take them off completely yet. wait until you remove the next 4 bolts so it's less messy
3.5 - put a rag under the abs unit. Remove the 4 x 12mm bolts on the bracket that holds the ABS unit. And 1 x 10 mm bolt to the ABS fuse box. Untie the electrical snaps (orange color; you need to snap it off of the holder first before you can untie from each other).
3.6 - put more rags under the lines. Remove the lines completely and quickly.
3.7 - Remove the bracket/ABS unit. put a small bucket below the lines so that they won't drip in the engine bay.
3.8 - Put the ABS unit in the working tray. Take out the modulator by removing 2 x 12 bolts below. Here you will see the O-ring. Remove it using a tooth pick. Clean with a clean rag and brake fluid cleaner. Mine visually was fine but I replaced it, nonetheless.
3.9 - After replacing the o-ring, tie the modulator back to the unit. I torqued to 10 ft-lbs (but 8 ft-lbs is good enough).
3.10 - clean the whole unit with brake cleaner. put it back/battery back on.

Fourth, I then refilled the reservoir with DOT 3 fluid and bled the ABS (turn the car on, then off then bleed to help it build pressure) about 5 -6 times, until there's no air.

Fifth, filled the main brake fluid reservoir (at the brake master) and then bled the brake/wheels - RR, LF, LR, RF.

Sixth, test drive. Buzz at first turn on, then nothing. Good sign! At first, the wheels were still locking so I thought the ABS unit didn't work. Then after driving for about 10 mins. I turned the car off (warmed up at this point). I guess that must have reset the ECU. After that, the ABS worked but the ABS light is still on. No locking but after a few days, the buzzing became progressively more frequent. Not a good sign. But the wheels still not locking up.

Seventh, so I decided to replace the O-ring for the ABS motor as well. That was my project this weekend. Ordered the #24 o-ring from majectic honda.

Eighth, took out the abs unit as like last weekend. took the abs motor off (2x12 mm bolts on the bottom). took the o-ring off. I also took the solenoid/piston/pump off as well.

Ninth, I cleaned the piston with brake cleaner. There is another o-ring on that piston. I took that out and cleaned it as well. Put it back. Put the piston back. Put the new o-ring on. Put everything back the same way.

Tenth, tried to bleed the abs first. turned the car on for about 5 min but ABS Motor did not work (oh nooooo). at the point I was thinking about deleting the ABS or going to a junk yard (more likely scenario) next week. So I decided to bleed the wheels so I could drive it. I then took the fuse off.

Eleventh, Put the fuse back on. Turned the car on. the ABS motor buzz started, only 1 buzz (yay).... I proceeded to bleed the abs. then the wheels again (not necessary but i did it anyway).

Twelfth, No more ABS light. No more buzzing incessantly. It only buzzes once at start up and after quick brakes during testing. So this seems to work well.

A few things: 1). This is how I did with my car. Yours may be differently (though it - the o-ring problem - is more common cause of the abs light than believed). Your problem(s) may be different. 2.) Do a ECU reset after you are done fixing the abs. 3.) sometimes the abs motor may be bad, get a junkyard/craigslist one to replace it or replace the whole abs unit - modulator/module/motor. 4.) I call a junkyard near where I live, it's $30 for the whole unit if you want to extract it yourself. 5.) I did it because I wanted to learn. Thanks everyone for posting so that I was able to fix myself. Pay it forward as they said. 6.) I have to say, it's harder than replacing a mitral/aortic valves or performing CABG.

Also, Honda Accord 1994, 95, 96 all have the same abs units as the integra 94-97. Thanks everyone. it was fun.
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:13 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I have an abs pump off of my 2000 GSR the smaller round version. My abs light was on but i opted to remove the abs completely since it was cheaper. I have no idea what was wrong with it if you are interested in it ill sell it cheap. either way good luck man
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