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Old 08-10-2009, 03:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Gentlemen, I want to install an oil cooler for my engine to keep the engine running strong and because the heat right now is bad. Iím set to replace my timing belt in a month and try on an insulating intake manifold gasket and clean out the throttle body, the intake manifold, and the IACV etcÖ Going to also drop the oil pan and clean out the pick-up.
I have several options and Iím not sure which is best so I want to hear some opinions.

I have a b16 oil cooler filter adapter and the bolt that goes along with it. My stud remover easily fits on the b18ís oil filter plug. I also have access to an oil sandwich plate from Golden Eagle which would fit nice as well. So these options are easy, the real question is the cooling method.

Thereís the GSRís coolant pipe that would cost $30, plus o-rings and rubber hose. Thatís one option.

Thereís also a new copper heater core that I have which is about four by six inches and can be installed in the front bumper with a long stretch of hose. That is a long distance for the oil to travel but it would be the best cooling. The radiator has an oil cooler already built into it, perhaps for an automatic transmission but then the cooler would sit below the filter adapter. I can also route the heater core onto the firewall or on the side of the engine and install a computer fan and then this distance that the oil would have to travel would be much less but the cooling would be less and Iíd need to wire in a relay for the fan.

Now if the heater core and hoses sit below the filter adapter then Iíd need to add more oil, no biggie, and Iíd need a drain at the lowest point of the hoses to remove all the old oil at changes. Itís much easier to route the hoses below the filter adapter.

I want to hear opinions and experience with these methods.
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Old 08-10-2009, 03:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What oil temps are you seeing right now? If you're not overheating the oil, an oil cooler will be a waste of time and money.
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Old 08-10-2009, 03:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Very true Chris. I personally like the air cooled cooler approach, but would get a designated fluid cooler to do so. Summit stocks plate fin coolers for around $50 which is what I'll be stepping up to within the next year. To gain supply for the oil, I used a relocation kit and ran the cooler in series with it before the filter section of the relocation kit.
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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and if you decide to do a whole setup like that, an example can be seen here.
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The compression is amazing on this engine and the vacuum gauge reveals that the rings and the valve train is in wonderful shape. The engine neither burns nor leaks oil but under hard driving in hot weather, oil is consumed, very small amount, fourth a quart over a period of hard driving. It must be both hot and under hard driving conditions for the oil consumption to occur. I've seen this in many cars.

Iíve tried several oils in the engine and I have my preferred oil that reduces this.

The oil consumption tells me that the heat and hard driving wears down the oil and hence the oil isnít in as good shape during itís life. I could grandpa the car but what fun would that be? Now I want to drive this car for another decade. This is not a car that is ever going to run 12ís itís my little baby regardless and I love her.

Rutski, I wish I had seen your write up before I wrote this posting. You mentioned a slight drop in oil pressure but it is nowhere near a problem. Any problems draining out the old oil from the lines? I think that you mentioned that there was about an extra quart of oil? Are you able to remove the extra quart?

See the factory created a adequate cooler that was easy to service, the oil filter being removed would drain any residual oil left in the cooler or lines. The cooler is not the best at actually cooling the oil, but itís easy to service the car.
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Sgt Miller, you were running a turbo, high boost and there were hot temperatures during the dragon run, correct? Rutski, you spliced the factory oil pressure sensor, correct? Sgt Miller, where did you run the pressure sensor? Where did you guys run the temp sensor?
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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This is from another site, but here is a good writeup on a homebrew oil cooler setup:

http://www.honda-tekh.com/thread?id=3181
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Blackstone labs can help
They can tell you how bad your oil is.
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Old 08-11-2009, 08:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriskazaglis on Aug/10/09
Sgt Miller, you were running a turbo, high boost and there were hot temperatures during the dragon run, correct? Rutski, you spliced the factory oil pressure sensor, correct? Sgt Miller, where did you run the pressure sensor? Where did you guys run the temp sensor?
millhouse not miller...just an old nickname from highschool

I was down on low boost for the dragon and went through approximately half a quart over the entire weekend.

My pressure sender is located on the sandwich plate I am running for the feed to the turbo. The temp sender is running off of the same sandwich plate as well. If needbe I can try to get a picture of the setup sometime.
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
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@Chrizk-

The pressure drop is minimal...but it all depends on the oil cooler setup. Factors:
-Length of plumbing: the longer, the lower the pressure (pressure = force/area...force remains same, area increases)
-Size of cooler (same as above)
-Routing of plumbing and use of fittings: small radius turns or bends tend to lower pressure

Unfortunately, draining 100% oil from the lines is impossible. The system is setup such that ~80% or so of the lines are higher than where they come out of the block, so that oil just drains back into the pan once the engine is shut off. The remaining 20% before the remote filter is stuck in there... as is the oil remaining in the thermostat and cooler. I have thought of a drain plug or valve somewhere in the low part of the system, but I HATE re-plumbing and making new fittings, etc. The SS braid and Aeroquip fittings are nice and leak-free and easy to work with.....but when it comes to making them, and cutting the SS lines...painful to see the least. Either way...it may or may not happen eventually. HOWEVER- if you put a valve in there on the original design, it would be 1000 times easier than doing it after the fact. I'm really not too concerned with it....there's no way to ever get 100% out anyway and I change religiously (usually...). If you look at a lot of the OEM oil cooler loops (Porsche, VW, trucks etc) many of them do not allow for a complete oil drain during changes.

Also of note (while I don't think this matters too much for you)- if you ever need a quick easy access feed for oil...like say to a turbo- having the plumbing up front make this uber-easy.

Both my temp and pressure senders are located in the remote filter adapter (thats the whole reason I purchased the one with 4 ports) as seen here:


When I put the morosso pan back on the motor, I plan to move the temp sensor there for more accurate engine oil temp readings.

I noticed a ~8-10psi drop on max pressure yesterday...had been sitting for 3 days during the move. I'm thinking oil change is needed BADLY- been neglected for wedding/buying house/packing/moving etc. Filter must be toast.
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